Any Reason NOT To use Quick Change Oil Valve?
03-15-2012, 08:49 PM
#31
everyone must have really high cars because there would be no way to fit a drain pan underneath my car without lifting it up. And if i lift it up, might as well turn a wrench a few times to take a drain bolt off.
03-16-2012, 01:26 AM
#33
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Wow.... Haven't been on the forum for months and this is the first thing I notice: Dumb. Either you like the not-very-trustworthy valve or you don't mind being normal/rational and doing a f$%!ing job that takes 20 min MAX, FOR A WOMAN! My wife can change it, and she doesn't bitch about it, so it really isn't that hard. Wow, again... Just had to rant about the ignorance in this post, LMAO. Insane. Anyway, whoever suggested it's OK to DD a car with the same oil for 20K is also missing a point: If you're talking about an AP1, you might as well change it anyway at 3-5K, because you're definitely not putting even 2K on it without adding some (unless you've modded), and cycling through it at that rate in 20K miles will change it a few times for you anyway. I run my S2K to 9K in the first 3 gears alot, every day, and anyone else who does so should use regular change intervals at 3-5K, depending on the brand and type of oil. Just saying.
Cheers all.
Cheers all.
03-16-2012, 03:12 AM
#34
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Someone actully lost a cotter in your engine and thought is was ok TO LEAVE IT IN THE ENGINE???? I'd love to know who did this.
03-16-2012, 06:54 AM
#36
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Anyway, whoever suggested it's OK to DD a car with the same oil for 20K is also missing a point: If you're talking about an AP1, you might as well change it anyway at 3-5K, because you're definitely not putting even 2K on it without adding some (unless you've modded), and cycling through it at that rate in 20K miles will change it a few times for you anyway.
Not a bad point: oil boat AP1's do not have to change oil, just the filter.
If a used oil anaylysis shows the oil you dumped was not sheared down (not any thinner than how it went in) and the TBN value (capability to compensate for agressive combustion by-products) is still high enough, you change too soon.
Simple.
You're throwing a pencil away after a days writing and buy a new pencil, just because you don't want to run out of pencil.
With a pencil you would be able to see it was almost as long as new, with oil you need a UOA for it.
If you DD your car for some miles (and you kinda have to to get the yearly miles) your not that hard on your oil.
Even if you take it to redline in 1st, 2nd and 3rd.. OMG the stress!!
So the right oil will do the distance.
03-16-2012, 03:45 PM
#37
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Originally Posted by ikeyballz' timestamp='1331855037' post='21512906
My drain plug caught a valve cotter (solid piece, lucky I guess) after I got my valve retainers swapped. It would've been a PITA if it had gotten stuck in the pump.
03-16-2012, 09:56 PM
#38
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Ive used my fumoto valve for 7 months now on my daily driven s2000, problem free. I also had one on my previous DD for 3 years, problem free as well. Makes changing oil extremely easy and totally worth it.
03-17-2012, 04:35 PM
#40
Originally Posted by AP1Driver' timestamp='1331889991' post='21514000
Anyway, whoever suggested it's OK to DD a car with the same oil for 20K is also missing a point: If you're talking about an AP1, you might as well change it anyway at 3-5K, because you're definitely not putting even 2K on it without adding some (unless you've modded), and cycling through it at that rate in 20K miles will change it a few times for you anyway.
Not a bad point: oil boat AP1's do not have to change oil, just the filter.
If a used oil anaylysis shows the oil you dumped was not sheared down (not any thinner than how it went in) and the TBN value (capability to compensate for agressive combustion by-products) is still high enough, you change too soon.
Simple.
You're throwing a pencil away after a days writing and buy a new pencil, just because you don't want to run out of pencil.
With a pencil you would be able to see it was almost as long as new, with oil you need a UOA for it.
If you DD your car for some miles (and you kinda have to to get the yearly miles) your not that hard on your oil.
Even if you take it to redline in 1st, 2nd and 3rd.. OMG the stress!!
So the right oil will do the distance.