Any Ideas about hub noise
08-13-2006, 11:07 AM
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Any Ideas about hub noise
Ok so Im pretty new here but I've been reading about this "infamous" rear end clicking noise. From what I read(used search tool) it sounds like I have this same problem,..referring to the hub nut not being torqued to the "new" specs of 220ft lbs.
So i've pulled the tires and Im looking at what Im pretty positive is the hub nut...but there is now "stake" in it. Isnt that basically a cotter pin looking thing? Anyway I attempted to torque it down to 220 but its not moving.....seems its already torqued enough. Can anyone else give some ideas of what this noise could be. This is an AP1 by the way...thanks in advance for the responses...cars on stands right now and im trying to figure out what else this clicking noise could be...already checked the brakes too...doesnt seem to be that either.
So i've pulled the tires and Im looking at what Im pretty positive is the hub nut...but there is now "stake" in it. Isnt that basically a cotter pin looking thing? Anyway I attempted to torque it down to 220 but its not moving.....seems its already torqued enough. Can anyone else give some ideas of what this noise could be. This is an AP1 by the way...thanks in advance for the responses...cars on stands right now and im trying to figure out what else this clicking noise could be...already checked the brakes too...doesnt seem to be that either.
08-13-2006, 11:28 AM
#2
Since you are new here, it is suggested that you make your title more descriptive to give indication of what your thread is about. "Any Ideas" just doesn't cut it.
As for your hub nut situation, there is no cotter pin. You have to "UNstake" it before you can re-torque it. The stake will prevent you from putting any more or less torque on it. You need to pound out the indentation so the nut can be turned.
Also, you don't just increase the torque. You must remove the nut entirely, grease the surrounding area, THEN put the nut back on and torque it to the new specs.
Are you sure you are looking at the right thing? It's only on the rear axles and it's that giant 36mm nut with the collar ring that's "staked".
As for your hub nut situation, there is no cotter pin. You have to "UNstake" it before you can re-torque it. The stake will prevent you from putting any more or less torque on it. You need to pound out the indentation so the nut can be turned.
Also, you don't just increase the torque. You must remove the nut entirely, grease the surrounding area, THEN put the nut back on and torque it to the new specs.
Are you sure you are looking at the right thing? It's only on the rear axles and it's that giant 36mm nut with the collar ring that's "staked".
08-13-2006, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by xviper,Aug 13 2006, 11:28 AM
Since you are new here, it is suggested that you make your title more descriptive to give indication of what your thread is about. "Any Ideas" just doesn't cut it.
As for your hub nut situation, there is no cotter pin. You have to "UNstake" it before you can re-torque it. The stake will prevent you from putting any more or less torque on it. You need to pound out the indentation so the nut can be turned.
Also, you don't just increase the torque. You must remove the nut entirely, grease the surrounding area, THEN put the nut back on and torque it to the new specs.
Are you sure you are looking at the right thing? It's only on the rear axles and it's that giant 36mm nut with the collar ring that's "staked".
As for your hub nut situation, there is no cotter pin. You have to "UNstake" it before you can re-torque it. The stake will prevent you from putting any more or less torque on it. You need to pound out the indentation so the nut can be turned.
Also, you don't just increase the torque. You must remove the nut entirely, grease the surrounding area, THEN put the nut back on and torque it to the new specs.
Are you sure you are looking at the right thing? It's only on the rear axles and it's that giant 36mm nut with the collar ring that's "staked".
Ahhh I see what your saying....now I know what you mean by "unstake"...Got it. Thanks for your help.
08-13-2006, 01:57 PM
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Also, note that just applying grease by hand isn't going to cut it. What you need to do is force that grease onto the spindle. The only real way to do this without pulling things further apart is with air pressure. One of those bottle you use to clean your keyboards will work, but a compressor is better.
I greased and retorque'd mine over 3 years ago when I bought the car, and the noise hasn't returned.
I greased and retorque'd mine over 3 years ago when I bought the car, and the noise hasn't returned.
08-13-2006, 09:41 PM
#5
What am I missing. Why would you force grease in to spindle it does not move. Just did mine a while back before the clicking started (needed something to do-bored). Just followed the TSB and put some grease on the back side of the spindle nut and torqued to 220 ftlbs and staked the nut. Please tell me the purpose of forcing grease in there, the hub bearing is sealed I think.
08-14-2006, 06:33 AM
#6
Originally Posted by Avionics86,Aug 13 2006, 11:41 PM
Just followed the TSB and put some grease on the back side of the spindle nut and torqued to 220 ftlbs and staked the nut. Please tell me the purpose of forcing grease in there, the hub bearing is sealed I think.
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