Another way to pull the trans
01-22-2005, 10:42 PM
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Another way to pull the trans
Hello all,
After reading and printing the article from the website about how to pull your transmission from the guy that is experimenting with clutch springs (sorry bad with names but great article) and finaly going ahead with the swap, i realized there must be an easier way than to pull the lower sub frame.... so with that in mind my father and i came up with a different way, and to us, easier way to change a clutch. (faster? eh, the jurys still out, but this way doesnt affect alignment)
This way can only be used safely with a cherry picker or engine hoist of some kind... if you dont have one, harbor frieght has one that we have, and its very nice. It has the foldable legs and is very heavy duty, and we paid around 125 for it with the load leveler as well.
This is the process we used but alot of things we did for ease of getting to certian bolts, so some fine tuning could be done, to make it faster. Also some uncommon tools may include 10mm 12 point, and a 6mm stubby allen socket, no not a key! ( can cut a long one in half). Both are very neccesary items. Pulling the tranny did not cause and tranny to tranny tunnel scrapage. it pulled out very nicely.
0) first thing first. This is a honda, and honda makes the best engineered cars out of all major manufacuters (ie not ferrari). this car is engineered to be the stiffest, best handling, lightest, quasi race car. tell yourself that, and as well as that you love your car, and all major frustrations should be avoided. take your time. this cars engineering is awesome, take pride in that fact.
1 we removed the air box, air tube and filter, and battery.
2 then we removed the accessory belt with a 14mm on a long 3/8 rachet
3 we removed the alternator completly and removed all the bolts to the ac, and lower ac bracket (please dont do rest of this step until step 11 ), undo the harness connector, and let it sit on the sub frame so the hoses wouldnt be subjected to all the movement of the freely moving motor.
4 remove the battery shield, the bolt next to the firewall only needs to loosened because its a half circle, and remove the manifold heat shield. i also removed the vtec plugs to gain some more room.
5 remove the top starter bolt. its very hard to see and access but use long extentions, and a swivel socket, maybe even double swivels and snake it in there. i was personaly able to guide the socket on from underneath while my dad moved the extention, but i have long thin hands.
6 remove all manifold bolts and leave one on loosely.
(ok this is where i did things kinda maybe backwards to some people but i was alone)
7 go under and remove manifold support bracket and cat converter bolts and motor mount nuts, as well as the cross beam. disconect the 02 sensors and all assoicated clips, and support the cat from excessive dangling
8 now go back up top and remove manifold and set down on top of engine mount. set up the picker to hoist the manifold side of motor. take the weight off the mount and remove motor mount. then slide manifold out the bottom, and put mount back on with two bolts. release the weight and set up picker to hold both sides of the motor. remove the motor mount with 2 bolts ( i would personally never try to take out manifold through the top)
8* ( i put mount back on because i used a bolt in the manifold bracket, that goes into block, and a manifold stud to hold the chain on the left side. if you can put ur chain on without manifold interfierence then set up the picker on both sides, and just jack up and remove both things at once.)(end of backwardness)
9 remove oil pan bumper, and you have to remove the rubber part to snake it out. we also removed the air contianer located on the cross beam, 10 mm, and layed it on the top of the motor
10 check all wiring and make sure it can move 2 to 3 inches without over pulling or binding. i removed the brake booster vac. hose.
11 go under and remove the other motor mount,( this is a little harder, i have to jack up the motor and push the mount straight up into the lower radiator spiget, make sure it stays to the outside of the grounding strap, and then kinda push the pegs into the center opening, i was able to do this without scratches, or feeling like i was harming something) and cat conveter and 02 sensor wire . (good time to get lower ac bracket)
12 after all that i uncoupled a few of the wiring harness clips so that i could get some more movement out of the wire, from underneath, but i probably wouldnt do that again. i also removed the black metal upper rad hose support, 10 mm, that goes into the frame rail by drivers tire, c clip thing.
13 (maybe backward to some) i removed both ends of the drive shaft, remember to mark it so it goes in the same way it came out, and drive shaft hoop so that i could leave the hub in the tranny, and not leak and gear oil bc we have carpet down on gargage, and also because i felt uncomfortable leaving the drive shaft tied up by the shifter (interferience). do however you please, but remove the drive shaft.
14 remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the lower shift boot to the tranny, from underneath.
15 go up top, take off shifter, its held snug with a bolt, losen it and the shifter spins off. pop off your center console carefully and remove the two plugs that controll hazards and roof. pull off white ring where arrows point by using screwdriver, push all way through inner rubber boot on inner part of ring by arrows, there is a hole in the boot and thats where the srewdriver should be, and push outward on tabs. pull up inner boot and remove the 3 10 mm and pull shifter off, and put somewhere outside of car. the grease keeps on givin.
16 remove all easy to access trans bolts that go to motor. remove the slave and wire tie so that the slave cannot open all the way.
17 remove trans mount, and have floor, tranny, jack to take the weight of tranny.
18 lower trans quite a bit and lower engine slightly too, and u can move engine forward if nesscary. make sure you do not rest harmonic balancer on sub frame. make sure everything is free floating and nothing is catching or binding anywhere. also make sure the back of the head is not hitting the fire wall. there is more room than you would first think back there however.
19 support the front of the oil pan with sissor jack, like the one in your trunk, or wood blocks or both. you decide. you dont want to remove the tranny and have the motor snap forward and hitting harmoic balancer. triple check the clearences you have around fire wall, both sides, and wiring harnesses, hoses, ect.
20 remove all top tranny bolts that bolt to the motor. and remove the tranny wiring harness from the tranny.
21 carefully slide tranny off of motor. remember to remove fork off of the throwout bearing because the bearing is trapped on the pp. should be able to spin the tranny once you move it out past the line up pins, and by turining it an inch or two, you know all the bolts are out and not holding on by a thread or two. tranny should come off very easily if everything is off.
22 set tranny on floor. pat self on back. drink beer.
23 remove the pressure plate with a 10mm 12 point. and slide everything off.
A personal side note about oem clutches. i purchased an 02 (used) and its clutch was rock hard. awesome petal feel. incredible. killer. i can not rave enough about that cars clutch. anywho the deal went bad and we ended up with an 03 and a severance package, which included a oem clutch. thinking that would end this newer cars clutch woes, in it went, and oh how i was wrong. the oem clutch and pp sucks. period. dont go through all that work just to put a stock clutch, (well the pp is at fault) get a decent aftermarket pp atleast.
if steps are missing, unclear, cluttered, please realise its 2am. and i just got finished installing a shitty clutch, and now i know i have to do all that work again.
if something is unclear ask and i can try to specify.
good luck, and its not that bad.
After reading and printing the article from the website about how to pull your transmission from the guy that is experimenting with clutch springs (sorry bad with names but great article) and finaly going ahead with the swap, i realized there must be an easier way than to pull the lower sub frame.... so with that in mind my father and i came up with a different way, and to us, easier way to change a clutch. (faster? eh, the jurys still out, but this way doesnt affect alignment)
This way can only be used safely with a cherry picker or engine hoist of some kind... if you dont have one, harbor frieght has one that we have, and its very nice. It has the foldable legs and is very heavy duty, and we paid around 125 for it with the load leveler as well.
This is the process we used but alot of things we did for ease of getting to certian bolts, so some fine tuning could be done, to make it faster. Also some uncommon tools may include 10mm 12 point, and a 6mm stubby allen socket, no not a key! ( can cut a long one in half). Both are very neccesary items. Pulling the tranny did not cause and tranny to tranny tunnel scrapage. it pulled out very nicely.
0) first thing first. This is a honda, and honda makes the best engineered cars out of all major manufacuters (ie not ferrari). this car is engineered to be the stiffest, best handling, lightest, quasi race car. tell yourself that, and as well as that you love your car, and all major frustrations should be avoided. take your time. this cars engineering is awesome, take pride in that fact.
1 we removed the air box, air tube and filter, and battery.
2 then we removed the accessory belt with a 14mm on a long 3/8 rachet
3 we removed the alternator completly and removed all the bolts to the ac, and lower ac bracket (please dont do rest of this step until step 11 ), undo the harness connector, and let it sit on the sub frame so the hoses wouldnt be subjected to all the movement of the freely moving motor.
4 remove the battery shield, the bolt next to the firewall only needs to loosened because its a half circle, and remove the manifold heat shield. i also removed the vtec plugs to gain some more room.
5 remove the top starter bolt. its very hard to see and access but use long extentions, and a swivel socket, maybe even double swivels and snake it in there. i was personaly able to guide the socket on from underneath while my dad moved the extention, but i have long thin hands.
6 remove all manifold bolts and leave one on loosely.
(ok this is where i did things kinda maybe backwards to some people but i was alone)
7 go under and remove manifold support bracket and cat converter bolts and motor mount nuts, as well as the cross beam. disconect the 02 sensors and all assoicated clips, and support the cat from excessive dangling
8 now go back up top and remove manifold and set down on top of engine mount. set up the picker to hoist the manifold side of motor. take the weight off the mount and remove motor mount. then slide manifold out the bottom, and put mount back on with two bolts. release the weight and set up picker to hold both sides of the motor. remove the motor mount with 2 bolts ( i would personally never try to take out manifold through the top)
8* ( i put mount back on because i used a bolt in the manifold bracket, that goes into block, and a manifold stud to hold the chain on the left side. if you can put ur chain on without manifold interfierence then set up the picker on both sides, and just jack up and remove both things at once.)(end of backwardness)
9 remove oil pan bumper, and you have to remove the rubber part to snake it out. we also removed the air contianer located on the cross beam, 10 mm, and layed it on the top of the motor
10 check all wiring and make sure it can move 2 to 3 inches without over pulling or binding. i removed the brake booster vac. hose.
11 go under and remove the other motor mount,( this is a little harder, i have to jack up the motor and push the mount straight up into the lower radiator spiget, make sure it stays to the outside of the grounding strap, and then kinda push the pegs into the center opening, i was able to do this without scratches, or feeling like i was harming something) and cat conveter and 02 sensor wire . (good time to get lower ac bracket)
12 after all that i uncoupled a few of the wiring harness clips so that i could get some more movement out of the wire, from underneath, but i probably wouldnt do that again. i also removed the black metal upper rad hose support, 10 mm, that goes into the frame rail by drivers tire, c clip thing.
13 (maybe backward to some) i removed both ends of the drive shaft, remember to mark it so it goes in the same way it came out, and drive shaft hoop so that i could leave the hub in the tranny, and not leak and gear oil bc we have carpet down on gargage, and also because i felt uncomfortable leaving the drive shaft tied up by the shifter (interferience). do however you please, but remove the drive shaft.
14 remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the lower shift boot to the tranny, from underneath.
15 go up top, take off shifter, its held snug with a bolt, losen it and the shifter spins off. pop off your center console carefully and remove the two plugs that controll hazards and roof. pull off white ring where arrows point by using screwdriver, push all way through inner rubber boot on inner part of ring by arrows, there is a hole in the boot and thats where the srewdriver should be, and push outward on tabs. pull up inner boot and remove the 3 10 mm and pull shifter off, and put somewhere outside of car. the grease keeps on givin.
16 remove all easy to access trans bolts that go to motor. remove the slave and wire tie so that the slave cannot open all the way.
17 remove trans mount, and have floor, tranny, jack to take the weight of tranny.
18 lower trans quite a bit and lower engine slightly too, and u can move engine forward if nesscary. make sure you do not rest harmonic balancer on sub frame. make sure everything is free floating and nothing is catching or binding anywhere. also make sure the back of the head is not hitting the fire wall. there is more room than you would first think back there however.
19 support the front of the oil pan with sissor jack, like the one in your trunk, or wood blocks or both. you decide. you dont want to remove the tranny and have the motor snap forward and hitting harmoic balancer. triple check the clearences you have around fire wall, both sides, and wiring harnesses, hoses, ect.
20 remove all top tranny bolts that bolt to the motor. and remove the tranny wiring harness from the tranny.
21 carefully slide tranny off of motor. remember to remove fork off of the throwout bearing because the bearing is trapped on the pp. should be able to spin the tranny once you move it out past the line up pins, and by turining it an inch or two, you know all the bolts are out and not holding on by a thread or two. tranny should come off very easily if everything is off.
22 set tranny on floor. pat self on back. drink beer.
23 remove the pressure plate with a 10mm 12 point. and slide everything off.
A personal side note about oem clutches. i purchased an 02 (used) and its clutch was rock hard. awesome petal feel. incredible. killer. i can not rave enough about that cars clutch. anywho the deal went bad and we ended up with an 03 and a severance package, which included a oem clutch. thinking that would end this newer cars clutch woes, in it went, and oh how i was wrong. the oem clutch and pp sucks. period. dont go through all that work just to put a stock clutch, (well the pp is at fault) get a decent aftermarket pp atleast.
if steps are missing, unclear, cluttered, please realise its 2am. and i just got finished installing a shitty clutch, and now i know i have to do all that work again.
if something is unclear ask and i can try to specify.
good luck, and its not that bad.
01-23-2005, 12:01 PM
#3
Honstly, this method sounds like quite a bit more trouble with little advantage. I changed my clutch using the "normal" procedure, and didn't notice any change in my alignment. Even if my alignment did change a bit, it isn't that big of a deal. My car requires frequent alignments anyway.
01-24-2005, 06:10 AM
#4
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ure prolly better off just taking the motor out it prolly be faster. i would just undo the motor mounts rest the engine as far as it goes and undo the tranny bolts from the firewall. i did my engine faster than u did ur tranny
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