Another rattle sound...
05-02-2007, 03:33 AM
#11
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Second thought.. it could be IN the cat too.
Happened to me.
The first core (looking in direction of flow) became loose and moved backwards and rattled at certain rpms, especially @ idle.
New OEM cats cost major Kroner (spelled it right?)
It's fixable if you're lucky.. you'll need a TIG welder and some other stuff.
Worked for me (fingers crossed).
Happened to me.
The first core (looking in direction of flow) became loose and moved backwards and rattled at certain rpms, especially @ idle.
New OEM cats cost major Kroner (spelled it right?)
It's fixable if you're lucky.. you'll need a TIG welder and some other stuff.
Worked for me (fingers crossed).
05-02-2007, 05:41 AM
#12
Thread Starter
Yupp, you spelled it right 
And an OEM cat is certainly NOT cheap.. What's the easiest way to check the cat? Remove it and see inside? Or can I check with the cat where it is?
And an OEM cat is certainly NOT cheap.. What's the easiest way to check the cat? Remove it and see inside? Or can I check with the cat where it is?
05-02-2007, 06:05 AM
#13
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cmn Posted on May 2 2007, 02:41 PM
You could try tapping / banging on the COLD! exhaust and listen for simular noise as in your no-image-only-sound-video 
If you decide to remove it, be carefull with the O2 sensor, IMO its best to disconnect it, there is a connector above the transmission, just follow the wire.
That way you don't need to remove the O2 from the cat.
Once you've removed the cat, look in it at the front.
The first core should start right there where the cat is cylindrical and not about 25mm down.
If the first core has shifted downstream, you could try tapping the front of the cat on the floor (piece of wood) and see if the core falls back to where it belongs.
To fix with a TIG welder the way I did:
Remove O2 sensor.
Remove heat shields from cat.
I've drilled 3 2.5mm holes about 80mm from the front, tapped M3 in it, put in 3 M3x8mm RVS bolts in and TIG welded the heads so it doesn't leak.
The bolts that stick out on the inside prevent the core sliding back.
So far it works for me - no rattle.
About 2-3 months ago.
In your case it still could be something else though.
damn typo's
What's the easiest way to check the cat? Remove it and see inside? Or can I check with the cat where it is?
exhaust and listen for simular noise as in your no-image-only-sound-video If you decide to remove it, be carefull with the O2 sensor, IMO its best to disconnect it, there is a connector above the transmission, just follow the wire.
That way you don't need to remove the O2 from the cat.
Once you've removed the cat, look in it at the front.
The first core should start right there where the cat is cylindrical and not about 25mm down.
If the first core has shifted downstream, you could try tapping the front of the cat on the floor (piece of wood) and see if the core falls back to where it belongs.
To fix with a TIG welder the way I did:
Remove O2 sensor.
Remove heat shields from cat.
I've drilled 3 2.5mm holes about 80mm from the front, tapped M3 in it, put in 3 M3x8mm RVS bolts in and TIG welded the heads so it doesn't leak.
The bolts that stick out on the inside prevent the core sliding back.
So far it works for me - no rattle.
About 2-3 months ago.
In your case it still could be something else though.
damn typo's
05-05-2007, 11:05 AM
#15
Thread Starter
I found the problem! 
It's the cat! Took it down a couple of hours ago. The "stuff" inside the cat moved at least 1,5 cm forward/backwards, and a little bit up/down/around!.. So, does anyone know a good place to buy a Berk (or other quality brand) testpipe? Heard a lot of crap about Megan Racing TP's... Great if they have TCT at the same place, as I need that too.
It's the cat! Took it down a couple of hours ago. The "stuff" inside the cat moved at least 1,5 cm forward/backwards, and a little bit up/down/around!.. So, does anyone know a good place to buy a Berk (or other quality brand) testpipe? Heard a lot of crap about Megan Racing TP's... Great if they have TCT at the same place, as I need that too.
05-05-2007, 01:24 PM
#16
Thread Starter
Here's the cat:
You can see where it has been moving forwards/backwards. It also had some room up/down/around. (Also quite obvious as it wouldn't be able too slide like that if it hadn't had any room in other directions..)
You can see where it has been moving forwards/backwards. It also had some room up/down/around. (Also quite obvious as it wouldn't be able too slide like that if it hadn't had any room in other directions..)
05-05-2007, 03:32 PM
#17
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Do these part# are on your cat too?
First cat E 5521882-10 Foil 0.05
Second cat E 5521881-08 Foil 0.05
Its not important, I'm just interested.
Runnig a testpipe in Norway.. that's not legal.. is it
Get the CEL fix / O2 extension too
First cat E 5521882-10 Foil 0.05
Second cat E 5521881-08 Foil 0.05
Its not important, I'm just interested.
Runnig a testpipe in Norway.. that's not legal.. is it
Get the CEL fix / O2 extension too
05-05-2007, 08:49 PM
#18
Thread Starter
I'll check those #'s when I put the TP on. 
Legal?.. Uhm.. hehe. I'm certainly NOT INTERESTED in buying a new cat for my S. The reason is mostly the price. I have a bid on a Berk TP on eBay: "includes a built-in oxygen sensor adapter". Hope that works.
Legal?.. Uhm.. hehe. I'm certainly NOT INTERESTED in buying a new cat for my S. The reason is mostly the price. I have a bid on a Berk TP on eBay: "includes a built-in oxygen sensor adapter". Hope that works.
05-06-2007, 10:39 AM
#20
Registered User
no warranty on the cat in norway? in the US we have 8yr/80k mile warranty on our emissions parts. i'd assume you guys would have something similar or stricter.