another nitrous question for those who have it on there s2k
#1
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Thread Starter
another nitrous question for those who have it on there s2k
i just installed a nitrous express wet kit on my car (not direct port). i haven't used it yet and i'm not going to until i ask a few questions... 1. i just put in IK-22
(gapped at about 1.1mm) plugs... i know these are the stock heat range, but are these ok to run with the kit? i'm only ever going to 75hp at the most...
2. where is the best spot to tap into the fuel line.. the best place i could see was the line almost underneather the car coming off the fuel rail.
3. is there anything else i should consider, check, or be concerned about?
i know this car runs pretty rich from the factory, so i thought i'd give it a little juice just for some fun fri. nights when all the civics/crx pipe there cans at me..
(gapped at about 1.1mm) plugs... i know these are the stock heat range, but are these ok to run with the kit? i'm only ever going to 75hp at the most...
2. where is the best spot to tap into the fuel line.. the best place i could see was the line almost underneather the car coming off the fuel rail.
3. is there anything else i should consider, check, or be concerned about?
i know this car runs pretty rich from the factory, so i thought i'd give it a little juice just for some fun fri. nights when all the civics/crx pipe there cans at me..
#2
why did you get plugs with the same heat range?? however they should be fine if gapped at stock. Just dont push pass 75hp without a higher octane fule such as 100ct unleaded. Tap the fuel rail from the top. You could tap it about an inch from the edge closest to the bumper of the car. Use an 1/8 inch tap and an 1/8th inch to whatever AN fitting on your fuel line. Most likely -3AN. Use some telpfon paste for a good seal.
#3
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Thread Starter
i bought the plugs about 4 days ago.... i just got the nitrous yeasterday . if i'd had known i was getting the nitrous i would have gotten IK 24's but to late now.... so 1.1 is about right for stock gap?
#5
if I remember correctly .040 is stock gap. Gap your plugs around .037 if possible. Remember to use a window switch so you do not activate it at WOT under 4K. Also set the window switch to shut off around 8.8K, reason being you do not want to inject nitrous whiloe you hit the rev limiter and encounter fuel cut off. This could be fatal for your motor. Alway use a higher octane fuel whenever possible. Let me know if you run into any challenges.
#7
nitrous always needs an adequate supply of fuel for a complete mix then burn and at that low rpms that does not occur. This is either with a wet or dry system, since both introuduce additional fuel. Lets say you slam the throttle and activate your throttle switch at 1.5K rpm and your bottle pressure is at 1.1K, with and it was already purged...that would spell disaster due to the lack of fuel mix also the excess nitrous would sit on top of the piton waiting for the next combustion which would then be with way too much nitrous and then boom!!! Its happen to me and its not pretty. The window switch also serves a dual purpose to shut it off prior to fuel cutoff as it hit the rev limiter...
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#8
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i'll have to take pics of my install... but so far everthing is looking great... tapping into the fuel rail was a great idea and turned out awesome.... not to mention it looks very clean.. i have to mount the nitrous and purge silenoids, hook up the relay box, and mount the activation switch and purge switch.
i'm also goona look into getting that window switch cause i def. don't want to hit fuel cut off or activate it to soon.
i'm also goona look into getting that window switch cause i def. don't want to hit fuel cut off or activate it to soon.
#9
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Thread Starter
i also took out my plugs and took the gap down to about .039
car runs just like it did when it was 1.1mm so gapping it higher than stock didn't affect it eitehr way.
car runs just like it did when it was 1.1mm so gapping it higher than stock didn't affect it eitehr way.
#10
try mounting the TPS switch under the pedal with an L bracket. You will find a plastic stop plate under the pedal with a nut, loosen the nut and place the L bracket on the bolt and screw the nut back on and position the TPS switch on the bracket and move it around to the right position. Its going to take some time but its a cleaner look that underneath the hood adjacent to the MAP sensor. Also you could hear the clicking when it is activating. Also remember to use two relays since you are using the window switch and the solenoid themselves need one.