greybeard

I opened those vents on either side of the radiator opening right after getting my car........really bugs me when they put fake vents and scoops...........anyway, that space is all closed in by the wheel well liner and the bottom of the bumper closed in as well..........so anything going in there is going to go up to those holes in the engine compartment.........I suspect that Comptech puts its air box there for that reason.

I think it makes a lot of sense to use that opening for cold air entry.......I have considered opening the end of the stock air box and running a short length of ducting to that opening.

Also wouldn't hurt to make an opening in the inner wheel well liner to allow air flow to the rear of the wheels and brake rotors..........

Thoughts, comments?

greybeard

ultimate lurker

Yep, more efficient cooling cause you can keep the pump at its optimal working range. Remember, the stock pump has to be able to flow enough coolant at low rpm and high loads to cool the engine. That means that at 9000 rpm its probably spinning well too fast to be efficient. And electric pumps are more efficient than mechanical ones in terms of energy required. That's one of the reasons Honda has gone to electric power steering vs. a belt drive hydraulic pump.

On other cars, including past Hondas, electric water pumps can free up 5-10 hp easily.

UL

[QUOTE]Originally posted by gernby
[B]

Are you talking about replacing the mechanical water pump with an electric one?

Nobody

The PRM also makes it possible to change the oil from the top of the engine. My DiGrappa X Brace makes it difficult to get to the bolt from the bottom. . . . but from the top it's a breeze and I don't have to jack up the car.

The Carbon Fiber piece is sweet . . . . I wanted to extend the horn into the fender well, but I think that Russ is right....even at speed the opening in the bumper is pretty small and doesn't allow very much air in there--even if it is colder.

C-Bass

To do this, was there any cutting involved? Or were these plugs that simply popped out. I f you can help me through this, I will gladly send you a piece of the flexible ductig that I intend to use, free of charge of course!!! I am just afraid that I will screw up my fairing, so I'm being very cautious.

tenblade2001

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Zoechops
[B]

Gernby

[QUOTE]Originally posted by ultimate lurker
[B]Yep, more efficient cooling cause you can keep the pump at its optimal working range.

greybeard

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Zoechops
[B]

ultimate lurker

Not directly. There are standalone electric waterpumps that we could easily incorporate for under $400. But, we still need to bypass the stock pump which requires some fabrication. There are some manufacturers that make a cool little setup that replaces/incorporates the stock water pump and leaves the belt routing alone. On new Mustangs the kit goes for under $300. I've contacted the manufacturer about doing an S2K kit, but they haven't responded yet.

UL

GEARHEAD

Yes, it is an X Brace. It is another Pro Autosports product. Very light, low profile, and made from anodized aluminum.
www.proautosportsinc.com

Russ

Today, just for grins, I went back to square one and reattached my ducting to the wheel well, only this time, I went to a 3-inch diameter set-up and snaked the piping to the first level of the inside wheel well, where there are two openings. I stopped the route just prior to the horn section of my PRM because I wanted to use the horn section to speed up the path of the airflow (as designed). I zip-tied the assembly to keep the piping pointed firmly one inch shy of the horn section and directly pointed inside of it and went off for some road course runs. Bear in mind my quick description of my "course."
I have a local section of highway very straight and flat that I've been using to chart modification results for nearly three years now with great success. Today, before starting the mods described above, I checked my log book to make sure I had a good set of documented runs with the PRM in place (as originally designed, no mods to it) with weather conditions within 5-degrees/5 mph of today's.
When conditions where in place, I went out and began the testing. Eight runs later (throwing out the best/worst times, while averaging the rest), I was shocked to discover my average time was .18 SLOWER than the last set of runs I had with the PRM (without any additional plumbing).
Before I remove the ducting (for the last time, it would appear), I'll do one more set of runs but six runs (to me) is pretty conclusive that any additional plumbing routed from the wheel well area would need the faux brake ducting removed (bear in mind my S2000 does NOT have the right front area removed yet) to be of any benefit. There simply isn't enough air being punched up in there to make up for the flow restrictions being placed on the PRM by shoving something either inside the casing or ending right before the horn.
I'd be interested to see if anyone else mods their PRM and gets results contrary to my own (or any results for that matter).
Bottom line. Additional plumbing without the faux brake duct being cut out is a waste of time for my S2000. Hopefully, someone else gets better results but I think I'm going to be cutting mine soon. I think only then the plumbing might be of some value.