Another Hodata Gasket Install thread
#1
Thread Starter
Another Hodata Gasket Install thread
I suppose I am about 1/3 of the way through this install. The fuel rail has been removed and the top five bolts are out but can't get the bottom five bolts out with the sockets I have. Gonna have to run to sears to get a six point 12mm with the universal joint built in.
I have read the Marcucci writeup several times.
My questions
Any tricks or special tools that help with the bottom five manifold bolts?
I plan to try to torque down to spec and put some threadlock on the bolts/nuts when reinstalling. Have any of you had leaks and had to retorque? I am curious as to the long term reliability of the gasket. Any problems?
Many thanks.
I have read the Marcucci writeup several times.
My questions
Any tricks or special tools that help with the bottom five manifold bolts?
I plan to try to torque down to spec and put some threadlock on the bolts/nuts when reinstalling. Have any of you had leaks and had to retorque? I am curious as to the long term reliability of the gasket. Any problems?
Many thanks.
#2
Registered User
If both the surface of the head and intake manifold are clean as well as the gasket you should be just fine.
I wouldn't put loctite on them...as you will need to recheck them after a few heat cycles.
If they are torqued correctly..you shouldn't need it.
Maybe after every oil change..spot check a few of the bolts to make sure they haven't backed out.
Also tighten them in sequence..from inside out.
I wouldn't put loctite on them...as you will need to recheck them after a few heat cycles.
If they are torqued correctly..you shouldn't need it.
Maybe after every oil change..spot check a few of the bolts to make sure they haven't backed out.
Also tighten them in sequence..from inside out.
#3
I removed my alternator and belt auto tensioner which made things much easier to get to. Obviously this is not necessary but the alternator is just 1 clip, two bolts and a nut for the power. The auto tensioner is easy to get to too and really frees up some space underneath. As stated make sure you torque in at least 2 steps from the inside out as if torquing a head. After you are done torquing recheck all them one last time. I used loctite on mine and haven't had any problems yet.
#4
Thread Starter
How many miles do most have on them without problems?
#5
Marcucci did mine with me mostly watching. He was a master with various small extentions finding the exact length that allowed the rachet to work. Mine has been on the car over five years with no issues at all.
#6
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can anyone tell me what is the part number for the bolts to the intake manifold? The bolt part # and the nut part #. The nut im talking about is located at the top front (closest to the front bumper) of the intake manifold and the bolts that are needed for the center area of the intake manifold.
Also are these the correct part number for the washers for the "Damper" on the fuel rail?
16705-PD1-003 and 90428-PD6-003.
thanks,
Steven
Also are these the correct part number for the washers for the "Damper" on the fuel rail?
16705-PD1-003 and 90428-PD6-003.
thanks,
Steven
#7
Thread Starter
If anyone cares, I finished. It was not that bad. If anyone knows old MR2 Turbos, the "Hose from hell" job is far worse.
But if someone is looking to do this job in the near future I highly recommend these two tools.
Sears has a 12MM socket with built in universal joint. It only comes in 1/4 inch drive but is about $6 and if you also buy the roughly 10 inch 1/4 drive extension ($10 I think) you can hit the lower 2,3&4 bolts on the manifold pretty easy by finding a sweet spot to feed it through, it worked like a charm. Then I used 3/8 inch stuff with a u joint and a couple random extensions for the other two.
I messed with the lower bolts for about and hour with no luck, then went to sears and got these two pieces and had all five free in about an hour.
But if someone is looking to do this job in the near future I highly recommend these two tools.
Sears has a 12MM socket with built in universal joint. It only comes in 1/4 inch drive but is about $6 and if you also buy the roughly 10 inch 1/4 drive extension ($10 I think) you can hit the lower 2,3&4 bolts on the manifold pretty easy by finding a sweet spot to feed it through, it worked like a charm. Then I used 3/8 inch stuff with a u joint and a couple random extensions for the other two.
I messed with the lower bolts for about and hour with no luck, then went to sears and got these two pieces and had all five free in about an hour.
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jyeung528
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04-10-2008 03:38 PM