Amsoil or LE 1605?
#21
Registered User
This is what I should have done before switching to LE:
http://www.mag-hytec.com/oil-9920%20SYNOLEC.htm
http://www.mag-hytec.com/oil-9920%20SYNOLEC.htm
#22
Wow, that is an interesting read. My S2K has about 49k miles and I don't know when, if ever, the last time the differential fluids were change. I'll be using Amsoils 75w-110 and would like to perform a 'flush' in the event that the fluid has never been changed.
I love LE products, but their distribution and product selection just isn't intended for normal consumers. I've talked to one of LE's consultants and discussed their Synolec gear lubes. It seems like it would be a nice fit for the S2K, but I've never been able to put my hands on it to try. I would be very interested in your results.
I love LE products, but their distribution and product selection just isn't intended for normal consumers. I've talked to one of LE's consultants and discussed their Synolec gear lubes. It seems like it would be a nice fit for the S2K, but I've never been able to put my hands on it to try. I would be very interested in your results.
#23
You guys say flushing out..? What should I use to flush out my diff before switching out to Amsoil 75w-110? I have acess to Advance and autozone for pumps and such. Anyone know a certain one I should get?
#24
Registered User
PREPARATION OF DIFFERENTIAL RESEVOIRS FOR LE GEAR OILS
The following procedure is recommended for differential preparation before filling with LE gear oil. These steps should be taken in every case before changing to LE gear oil and are especially important where foaming has been a problem or in applications involving use of LE gear oils far beyond the manufacturers' recommended drain intervals.
1. Drain oil presently in the differential as completely as possible while the truck is still warm. This also helps remove contaminants and oxidized oil which can impair performance of LE gear lubricants. If contaminated oil remains in the differential, foaming can occur.
2. Do not use a volatile, chlorinated solvent or solvent-type flushing compound to wash out the differential. Any solvent trapped in the voids of the reservoir will cause corrosion. Also the presence of even a very little amount of solvent-type flushing compound will reduce the viscosity of a gear oil. Further, without a coating of oil for even a short time, rusting of internal parts of the differential can take place.
3. To properly flush the differential, use a light viscosity turbine oil or non-detergent engine oil (SAE 10 or 20). Jack up your truck (no-load condition) and run in gear for 15 minutes and drain. Note that some units can be so badly oxidized that physical removal from the inner surfaces may be required.
4. If new gears are installed make sure that the new gears that come with a rust preventative are cleaned off. This insures that any rust preventative, debris, metal chips and core sand is removed before installation
The following procedure is recommended for differential preparation before filling with LE gear oil. These steps should be taken in every case before changing to LE gear oil and are especially important where foaming has been a problem or in applications involving use of LE gear oils far beyond the manufacturers' recommended drain intervals.
1. Drain oil presently in the differential as completely as possible while the truck is still warm. This also helps remove contaminants and oxidized oil which can impair performance of LE gear lubricants. If contaminated oil remains in the differential, foaming can occur.
2. Do not use a volatile, chlorinated solvent or solvent-type flushing compound to wash out the differential. Any solvent trapped in the voids of the reservoir will cause corrosion. Also the presence of even a very little amount of solvent-type flushing compound will reduce the viscosity of a gear oil. Further, without a coating of oil for even a short time, rusting of internal parts of the differential can take place.
3. To properly flush the differential, use a light viscosity turbine oil or non-detergent engine oil (SAE 10 or 20). Jack up your truck (no-load condition) and run in gear for 15 minutes and drain. Note that some units can be so badly oxidized that physical removal from the inner surfaces may be required.
4. If new gears are installed make sure that the new gears that come with a rust preventative are cleaned off. This insures that any rust preventative, debris, metal chips and core sand is removed before installation
#26
I'm switching to the 75w-110 this weekend if I can find the time and I will likely flush. I hadn't thought about flushing, but it makes good sense and is similar my experience with changing fluids in industrial gearboxes. A non-detergent oil can be found in your Autozone, Advance, etc. I don't think I've run across SAE 20 non-detergent, but I haven't been looking. I have seen SAE 30 non-detergent and will pick that up.
Interesting note I just read about gearboxes:
"Ten percent of the old contaminated or depleted lubricant may be enough to use up most of the additives of the new oil."
Interesting note I just read about gearboxes:
"Ten percent of the old contaminated or depleted lubricant may be enough to use up most of the additives of the new oil."
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