Alternator needs replacement?
03-31-2006, 11:57 AM
#11
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I usually use the multimeter test, don't know if the fancy Honda machine is the same. I run the car, check the volts, then stop the car check the volts. Whichever is not in range determines the problem, alternator or battery. But it's very strange that the alternator is putting out good voltage but is still the problem. Very weird and uncharacteristic.
But I did learn today that even though a batter might read 12+ volts it still might cause starting problems, as the amps might be too low. So the Cold Crank Amps are bad.
But I did learn today that even though a batter might read 12+ volts it still might cause starting problems, as the amps might be too low. So the Cold Crank Amps are bad.
07-02-2007, 12:34 AM
#15
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Originally Posted by jyeung528,Jul 1 2007, 10:17 PM
funny bump.
i suppose i need to replace my alternator.
how do you clean the battery terminals?
i suppose i need to replace my alternator.
how do you clean the battery terminals?
07-09-2007, 01:51 PM
#17
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no no no. dont replace the alternator. PM me if youd like, and ill tell you what to replace. save you about 600 bucks. im deciding rather this is public info, or rather i should do some paypal action and help a ton of members save cash.
let me know if you guys think thats a good idea. $850 plus alternator, or just one part to replace just over 100 bucks. and DIY. ill take suggestions. later dave
let me know if you guys think thats a good idea. $850 plus alternator, or just one part to replace just over 100 bucks. and DIY. ill take suggestions. later dave
07-12-2007, 07:37 AM
#18
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There are really only 2 items that can go bad in an alternator... the rotor assembly, which costs $60, and the rectifier assembly, which costs $245. The rest is basically nuts, bolts, bearings, case, etc.
07-16-2007, 05:41 PM
#19
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Originally Posted by MacGyver,Jul 12 2007, 07:37 AM
There are really only 2 items that can go bad in an alternator... the rotor assembly, which costs $60, and the rectifier assembly, which costs $245. The rest is basically nuts, bolts, bearings, case, etc.
any leads on how to replace these parts within the alternator?
07-17-2007, 04:13 AM
#20
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Unless the lacquer has failed and there's a short (or a wire has broken and you have an open), the rectifier is the most likely piece to fail (being solid state).
Open up the alternator and swap out the parts. It's not like we can give you a blow by blow account on how to open one up, just grab a service manual to see an exploded view, or just start disassembling.
Open up the alternator and swap out the parts. It's not like we can give you a blow by blow account on how to open one up, just grab a service manual to see an exploded view, or just start disassembling.