vtec9

Several NE winters leave me having to replace rear camber and toe adjusting bolts and front caster and camber bolts because everything was too frozen to dial in specs correctly..

Can anyone please help me locate what I need?

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/j...=REAR+LOWER+ARM

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/j...5=FRONT+KNUCKLE

Also, is there anything else I should replace to ensure alignment goes off without a hitch this time?

Tech also felt even with new front camber bolts and a full stock range of adjustment, the car would still be out of spec because its too low (lowered on Espelirs.. two years ago same tech got everything dead on a month after I put on the springs). So, is this a viable solution? http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR/SPC_P...md2=67220&cmd3=

Don't feel like raising the car

starchland

how much are you lowered?

and after you get everything aligned and stuff, get a can of rust check or fluid film and go crazy.

vtec9

running Espelir ASD springs on stock shocks. Id say up front I'm probably down 2 inches, and 1.5 in the rear.. they've definitely settled a bit lower over the years.

SpitfireS

Are you buying new arms?
Have you thought about replacing the bushings?
Get and use plenty of this:

vtec9

Anyone else care to weigh in on this or point me to the correct part #s? Should I buy new arms? Bushings? Thanks

vtec9

At least help me find the right part #s please? heh..

JDR159

For the rear, you need the lower control arms (#12, #13). I tried, and couldn't buy the bushings (at least from Honda). Don't know about the front, but I'd guess it's the same scenario: Lower control arm (#11, #12). IF you do buy these, put lots of never seez on the bolts before you install... BTW, if your camber is ok where it is, don't bother to change these out.. My rear camber is frozen at -2 deg (UK settings) and I'm not changing, so no control arm replacement....

SpitfireS

Spoon and Mugen have all the important bushings, even the front lower compliance one.
King Motorsports has the Mugen's and nice pics too.
Google
New OEM bolts and locking nuts I bought from Honda.
For the rear toe I bought new OEM control arms (to get new ball joints too)

You'll need a press (and not a small one) and fitting pressing tools to get them out/in.
Sometimes getting them out is easy and in is hard (and vise versa) due to the shape of the arm.

vtec9

Do you think I need to replace the bushings or the rear arms? My wallet tells me definitely not to. 112k miles, mostly highway

I found all the bolts and cams, etc that I'll need from majestic honda..

204996 2 x BOLT B, FR. ARM ADJUST (LOWER)
2719517 2 x PLATE, CAM
204999 6 x NUT, SELF-LOCK (12MM)
204990 2 x NUT, SELF-LOCK CAM (12MM)
204989 2 x COLLAR, FR. ARM (LOWER)
204997 2 x BOLT C, FR. ARM (LOWER)
15787 2 x NUT, SELF-LOCK (10MM)
205026 2 x BOLT B, RR. ARM ADJUST (LOWER)
28747 4 x PLATE, CAM

SpitfireS

You don't need to get the cams.
Just a metal plate, easy to swap.

You mean the control arm, with the ball joint at the end?
As long as the ball joint is ok you can just replace the bushing IMO.

Driving the car after the (UK-spec) alignment will make you forget all the costs.