alignment woes
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
alignment woes
Several NE winters leave me having to replace rear camber and toe adjusting bolts and front caster and camber bolts because everything was too frozen to dial in specs correctly..
Can anyone please help me locate what I need?
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/j...=REAR+LOWER+ARM
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/j...5=FRONT+KNUCKLE
Also, is there anything else I should replace to ensure alignment goes off without a hitch this time?
Tech also felt even with new front camber bolts and a full stock range of adjustment, the car would still be out of spec because its too low (lowered on Espelirs.. two years ago same tech got everything dead on a month after I put on the springs). So, is this a viable solution? http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR/SPC_P...md2=67220&cmd3=
Don't feel like raising the car
Can anyone please help me locate what I need?
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/j...=REAR+LOWER+ARM
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/j...5=FRONT+KNUCKLE
Also, is there anything else I should replace to ensure alignment goes off without a hitch this time?
Tech also felt even with new front camber bolts and a full stock range of adjustment, the car would still be out of spec because its too low (lowered on Espelirs.. two years ago same tech got everything dead on a month after I put on the springs). So, is this a viable solution? http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR/SPC_P...md2=67220&cmd3=
Don't feel like raising the car
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
running Espelir ASD springs on stock shocks. Id say up front I'm probably down 2 inches, and 1.5 in the rear.. they've definitely settled a bit lower over the years.
#7
Registered User
For the rear, you need the lower control arms (#12, #13). I tried, and couldn't buy the bushings (at least from Honda). Don't know about the front, but I'd guess it's the same scenario: Lower control arm (#11, #12). IF you do buy these, put lots of never seez on the bolts before you install... BTW, if your camber is ok where it is, don't bother to change these out.. My rear camber is frozen at -2 deg (UK settings) and I'm not changing, so no control arm replacement....
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#8
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Spoon and Mugen have all the important bushings, even the front lower compliance one.
King Motorsports has the Mugen's and nice pics too.
Google
New OEM bolts and locking nuts I bought from Honda.
For the rear toe I bought new OEM control arms (to get new ball joints too)
You'll need a press (and not a small one) and fitting pressing tools to get them out/in.
Sometimes getting them out is easy and in is hard (and vise versa) due to the shape of the arm.
King Motorsports has the Mugen's and nice pics too.
New OEM bolts and locking nuts I bought from Honda.
For the rear toe I bought new OEM control arms (to get new ball joints too)
You'll need a press (and not a small one) and fitting pressing tools to get them out/in.
Sometimes getting them out is easy and in is hard (and vise versa) due to the shape of the arm.
#9
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Thread Starter
Do you think I need to replace the bushings or the rear arms? My wallet tells me definitely not to. 112k miles, mostly highway
I found all the bolts and cams, etc that I'll need from majestic honda..
204996 2 x BOLT B, FR. ARM ADJUST (LOWER)
2719517 2 x PLATE, CAM
204999 6 x NUT, SELF-LOCK (12MM)
204990 2 x NUT, SELF-LOCK CAM (12MM)
204989 2 x COLLAR, FR. ARM (LOWER)
204997 2 x BOLT C, FR. ARM (LOWER)
15787 2 x NUT, SELF-LOCK (10MM)
205026 2 x BOLT B, RR. ARM ADJUST (LOWER)
28747 4 x PLATE, CAM
I found all the bolts and cams, etc that I'll need from majestic honda..
204996 2 x BOLT B, FR. ARM ADJUST (LOWER)
2719517 2 x PLATE, CAM
204999 6 x NUT, SELF-LOCK (12MM)
204990 2 x NUT, SELF-LOCK CAM (12MM)
204989 2 x COLLAR, FR. ARM (LOWER)
204997 2 x BOLT C, FR. ARM (LOWER)
15787 2 x NUT, SELF-LOCK (10MM)
205026 2 x BOLT B, RR. ARM ADJUST (LOWER)
28747 4 x PLATE, CAM
#10
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You don't need to get the cams.
Just a metal plate, easy to swap.
You mean the control arm, with the ball joint at the end?
As long as the ball joint is ok you can just replace the bushing IMO.
Driving the car after the (UK-spec) alignment will make you forget all the costs.
Just a metal plate, easy to swap.
You mean the control arm, with the ball joint at the end?
As long as the ball joint is ok you can just replace the bushing IMO.
Driving the car after the (UK-spec) alignment will make you forget all the costs.