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Alignment Check - For Max Tire Life/Decent Handling

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Old 02-02-2015, 08:22 PM
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Default Alignment Check - For Max Tire Life/Decent Handling

I went to get my car aligned at a shop that does a lot of s2000's, but it wasn't the normal West End Alignment because I didn't want to wait two weeks for the alignment. I wanted to make sure everything is optimal before I put on my new Dunlop Direzza z2 star specs on AP2 V1 wheels. I do not want to kill these expensive ass tires just for some extreme cornering ability. Make no mistake, this is a daily driver with a little pep. The readouts seemed kind of strange to me as I was not consulted before they did it. The work was subletted from another shop that I trusted. Here's the spec sheet..let me know what you guys say.

Alignment Check - For Max Tire Life/Decent Handling-jkrl57o.jpg
Old 02-03-2015, 03:52 AM
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Front toe is good.
Old 02-03-2015, 04:11 AM
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from toe is good, rear is a little low considering you're in an AP1 but should be good for max tire life, just be aware that the rear may come around quicker under hard cornering.

Rear camber is good, but front camber is about double what it should be.

And as others have said, caster should be maxed.
Old 02-03-2015, 06:57 AM
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If all you care about is long tire life (I'm not sure why you got those tires if that's the case) then you simply want to minimize the camber and toe as much as possible. Basically just make sure the wheels stand up vertically and point straight ahead.

I do my own alignments the old fashioned way with strings and measurements. I can do camber, toe, and caster in my garage with no fancy tools. An added bonus is that it's free and my numbers are more repeatable than the fancy machines.
Old 02-03-2015, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by duffman13
from toe is good, rear is a little low considering you're in an AP1 but should be good for max tire life, just be aware that the rear may come around quicker under hard cornering.

Rear camber is good, but front camber is about double what it should be.

And as others have said, caster should be maxed.
I remember the shop said that my caster couldn't be adjusted because the bolt seized or some crap. That I would need to replace a part for it to be adjustable again and that it wasn't worth it to replace that part. As long as it doesn't adversely affect tire wear then I could survive. It drives pretty straight.


Originally Posted by freetors
If all you care about is long tire life (I'm not sure why you got those tires if that's the case) then you simply want to minimize the camber and toe as much as possible. Basically just make sure the wheels stand up vertically and point straight ahead.

I do my own alignments the old fashioned way with strings and measurements. I can do camber, toe, and caster in my garage with no fancy tools. An added bonus is that it's free and my numbers are more repeatable than the fancy machines.
That's how West End does it. It's very accurate if you know what you're doing.

Well I made a compromise with myself. I knew these tires wouldn't last long as others, but I could make them last longer by having semi-conservative alignment settings. I know no matter what I will have a little inner wear, but that's okay. As long as it isn't excessive. When I got the car back I knew the front was a little more aggressive than my preference.

Thanks all! I'll reduce the front camber a bit and try again with the caster.
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