Alignment Ailment
#1
Alignment Ailment
Did an alignment at my work the other day.
Before:
And this is after:
The right rear toe setting is currently maxed out, but I still cannot get the right rear camber to go any higher (more positive) than -1.7 degrees. My shop manager and all of the technicians are telling me it is a strut that is getting weak. I am not following their logic. I am told that the knuckle could bend relatively easy or perhaps a control arm or two, but I am not sure what to measure or how, in order to confirm what is the cause of my right rear camber problem. In the past, I have always been able to get everything centered on my alignment.
Either I've totally lost what little of my mind I have left, or I am completely missing something. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Before:
And this is after:
The right rear toe setting is currently maxed out, but I still cannot get the right rear camber to go any higher (more positive) than -1.7 degrees. My shop manager and all of the technicians are telling me it is a strut that is getting weak. I am not following their logic. I am told that the knuckle could bend relatively easy or perhaps a control arm or two, but I am not sure what to measure or how, in order to confirm what is the cause of my right rear camber problem. In the past, I have always been able to get everything centered on my alignment.
Either I've totally lost what little of my mind I have left, or I am completely missing something. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
#2
Moving the toe adjuster to the left lets you get more positive camber. Remember, moving the toe adjuster to the right pushes the part of the knuckle it's ball joint attaches to outward. This locks you into having to move the rear camber adjuster to the right in order to get toe to specs. Unfortunately it seems the people advising you don't really understand this car's suspension.
In any case 2/10ths of a degree won't make a difference at all as far as tire wear is concerned and I guarantee you can't feel the difference.
I'd be more worried about front toe to be honest. It's not enough to have it to specs it needs to be symmetrical.
In any case 2/10ths of a degree won't make a difference at all as far as tire wear is concerned and I guarantee you can't feel the difference.
I'd be more worried about front toe to be honest. It's not enough to have it to specs it needs to be symmetrical.
#3
Moving the toe adjuster to the left lets you get more positive camber. Remember, moving the toe adjuster to the right pushes the part of the knuckle it's ball joint attaches to outward. This locks you into having to move the rear camber adjuster to the right in order to get toe to specs. Unfortunately it seems the people advising you don't really understand this car's suspension.
In any case 2/10ths of a degree won't make a difference at all as far as tire wear is concerned and I guarantee you can't feel the difference.
I'd be more worried about front toe to be honest. It's not enough to have it to specs it needs to be symmetrical.
In any case 2/10ths of a degree won't make a difference at all as far as tire wear is concerned and I guarantee you can't feel the difference.
I'd be more worried about front toe to be honest. It's not enough to have it to specs it needs to be symmetrical.
I was looking at suspension components the other day and I noticed that the Right Rear Shock Absorber Assembly is discontinued, whereas the Left Rear is not. Both have different part numbers. They will still sell the Right Rear Shock Absorber Unit. Does anyone know why this is? My parts source.
#4
All s2k rear shocks are interchangeable, just valved differently through the years.
When you align the car loosen both toe and camber adjusters, that way you can adjust both at the same time making it easier to dial in the specs you want. Just don't forget to tighten them afterwards.
Also, often when tightening the adjuster the adjuster tends to move ever so slightly. What I do is set the adjuster right before where I want it so when I tighten it fully it lands where I want it.
When you align the car loosen both toe and camber adjusters, that way you can adjust both at the same time making it easier to dial in the specs you want. Just don't forget to tighten them afterwards.
Also, often when tightening the adjuster the adjuster tends to move ever so slightly. What I do is set the adjuster right before where I want it so when I tighten it fully it lands where I want it.
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: West Chester, PA
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You don't have a Mcpherson strut assembly any where on that car so you can rule that out. Your co-workers need to take a closer look at what type of suspension these cars have!
#6
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
Posts: 8,395
Received 1,418 Likes
on
1,052 Posts
Even if it were mcpherson strut....why would a blown shock absorber (damper) have something to do with height? Its not a gas/air spring. Its a damper. The spring controls height.
Maybe you have some slightly weak bushings or a sagging spring.
Maybe you have some slightly weak bushings or a sagging spring.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post