Rick Hesel

After removing the water temperature sensor (to put on new clamps), which I installed in the upper radiator hose about 6

Prolene

Those must be huge air pockets for those symptoms to come about, I think.

If you are getting coolant flow, the air should naturally accumulate at the top of the radiator.

Could there be some other problem? No coolant flow? Thermostat not opening?

Gloffer

We just did a drain and fill on my radiator last weekend. I suggest you do the static bleed as depicted in the Helms manual again. Then start your car and perform a "dynamic bleed." That is open the two vent points while your car is running. Be careful to avoid the fluid that will exit the vent points, especially the one at the firewall, it can shoot clear passed the front of your car depending on how careful you perform this dynamic vent.

When we got done with mine we ran down I-17 from Flagstaff to Phoenix (120 miles) in over 100 deg F weather and my temp gauge was a constant 3 bars. I've since been around town with normal coolant temps.

Tanqueray was my mentor on performing this procedure. Thanks, Tanq!

Austin_S2000

I have followed the owner's manual to do this. Doesn't work very well the two times I have done it. I have had to resort to my procedure both times.

The third time was the charm following my procedure.

My procedure:
1.- Turn heat/cold temperature knob to full heat. Allows engine coolant to flow to heater coils.
2.- Open bleeder valve at the front of the engine.
3.- Remove cap at firewall.
4.- Fill radiator as high as possible.
5.- Fill overflow tank to max marking (the engine will suck front this location if low).
6.- Re-install all caps (Radiator, overflow, and firewall tube) and tighten bleeder valve.
7.- Turn on car.
8.- Run engine for 30 seconds (idle).
9.- Turn off car.
10.- Open bleeder valve only. If you notice bubbles you are getting close!
11.- Open radiator cap and top of fluid.
12.- Re-install radiator cap.
13.- Tighten bleeder valve.
14.- Turn on car.
15.- Run engine for 30 seconds (idle).
15.- Turn off car.
16.- Open bleeder valve only. If you notice bubbles you are getting close!
17.- Open radiator cap and top of fluid.
18.- Re-install radiator cap.
19.- Tighten bleeder.
20.- Turn on car.
21.- Run engine until fans turn on. This may take several minutes.
22.- Let the engine coolant cool!! Notice the overflow tank may be a few ticks below max.

23.- With a cool engine open bleeder valve. At this point engine coolant should overflow so open the valve slowly. VERY SLOWLY!!!. If it doesn't continue to open radiator cap and top of fluid and proceed with above steps until engine coolant overflows from the bleeder valve.

Remember:
24.- Top of overflow tank. The engine will continue to suck engine coolant if there are a few bubbles in the cooling system.

Hope this works. It has for me and is the procedure I recommend to many people.

See ya.

Hams2000

Just curious but when you tried to bleed it, did you have the radiator cap off? Make sure it's off. Also, you dont need to mess with the back valve on the heater line. The only one you really need to mess with is on the head. Wait for the fans to turn and cycle. Watch the coolant start to flow inside the radiator as the thermostat opens. When the thermostat closes, you'll notice the coolant stop flowing and start to fill up in the radiator. That's when you need to open the valve on the head to bleed out air. Make sure you close it up before the thermostat opens up again though, or you're just sucking air in again. Repeat that process a couple of times and you'll stabilize the cooling system quite a bit. Same procedure as old Saabs.


Chris

Rick Hesel

Thanks for the tips, especially Austin_S2000 and Hams2000. Worked like a charm, air pockets gone, fans and themostat working just fine

Hams2000

Anytime my friend.

Chris

marcucci

Not sure if I'm the only one, but I've only had to ever fill the system, close it up, drive (heat cycle fan), use the heat during that period, then shut it down, let it cool, and fill the rad and overflow. Maybe once more after that. It doesn't take much, and the system should "burp" itself.

I've NEVER had any luck with bleed screws.

Hams2000

Do it my way and you'll bleed it just fine. I had to bleed my system the first time when I changed the thermostat and the second time when I put on the Hondata insulator. If you've never opened up the system like that you shouldnt need to bleed it. It is a closed loop system that cannot bleed air on it's own though...

Chris

Gernby

I didn't think the bleeder would work with the Hondata insulator installed? Did you drill out the block for it?

I am with Marcucci on this. There were two occasions that I had to deal with this, once when my Hondata insulator was installed, and again when I changed my Thermostat and Switch. I just filled it up, drove it, filled it up, drove it, filled it up, etc. (cycling the A/C temperature from Cold to Hot every now and then).