High Revs

I ran a topic on S2000 Talk about a week ago and got a little input. I've read a lot of the threads here and can't find a similar idea on this topic. I know there are some great minds out there with some good input.
My idea is to run a hose from the passenger foot area between the battery and heat shield into the back of the air box. I think there is room to run up to a 2.5" ID hose of some type. The hose would enter the cabin right below where the air deflector is shooting onto the floor. Remove the plastic deflector and you could suck cold air through the hose directly into the air box. Just plug the hose for winter. Since I usually drive around with the top down and air on anyway I wouldn't be using anymore energy.Cut out the wall in the stock air box and you would have cool air mixing with the air from the front of the car.The only negative I can think of is you would here the intake louder which some people might like.
Another thought would be to hook the hose directly to the floor air output. Then you could shoot cold air with the fan speed. When you don't want air going there turn the air direction knob to another part of the cabin.Good idea? bad idea? not enough cold air? too much cold air?

duff0000

I think you get the same perfromance if you had the A/C off then the A/C on going to the airbox. So I would just do that

steven975

I still think cooling your intake manifold and throttle body with freon is a better idea!

These are already "cooled" (more like HEATED) by the engine coolant anyway. I know on the integras just plugging these lines helped somewhat. Obviously, you couldn't do this in areas that freeze.

Ztec

Use this instead and leave your A/C off!

http://www.designengineering.com/pro...asp?m=sc&cid=1

negcamber

High Revs,

I read your previous thread on this idea. I think it would be a great experiment.

The only thing I could think of that you may need to consider is the vacuum in the intake box. At WOT it may try to suck more air than the AC can provide. And of course our AC compressor is designed to shut off at WOT.

It may be a benefit to be able to cool the box itself, however. Heat soak is a real problem in our cars (see xViper's temp studies from a few years back).

Looking forward to seeing how it all works.

tizbad2k

I think that cooling the intake temp is a great idea, but i dont think that sucking cold air from the ac is worthwhile to attempt . Im not trying to put you down or anything, ive spent a lot of time/money trying to do crazy things, which in the end arnt worth the cost.

The reasons i dont think it will work well:
1. AC robs you of serious power to begin with.
2. Piping will gain heat from travel through engine bay.
3. Since the engine sucks in air at different rates, connecting a hose to a constant on ac fan wont be healthy for the ac system.
4. The air will get different kinds of turbulence from the travel in the pipe which will not be ideal considering the oem ram type setup.

But its a creative idea nonetheless.

However the link posted to the product , claims to be able to lower temps upto 50 degrees, but even twenty would be great. And doesnt seem that costly to implement.

High Revs

I was trying to think of something that wouldn't cost too much and would be an easy mod. If the idea would work I realize you would have to use some kind of wrapped / insulated hose or tube to help keep the air cool. It looks like some people have added an extra opening on the right side of the air box into the fender area. My thinking was that wherever you add extra inlets, you're still sucking in hot air on hot days. We pay good money for a fancy cai that still is sucking hot air in at the bottom of the car. Again most of my driving is around town and heat soak can be a problem. I don't know how much of a ram air effect we get in the city, but I still think adding cooler air to the box would be better than adding another hole to the fender area. Need more input.

CypherAZ

You are mistaken on the use of a CAI. The intent of the CAI is to draw "colder" air from outside the engine bay. If you compare engine bay temp vs. outside air temp, you'll see the difference. And unless you plan on a new A/C unit and ECU, you're idea will never work. As stated about, at WOT the A/C in the s2k disables itself.

You'd be better off installing an aftermarket thermostat in your car.

High Revs

You'd be better off installing an aftermarket thermostat in your car.


Why not do both. I understand how the cai helps with the outside air, but if the outside temp is above 90 degrees your still pulling in that hot air if your not moving very fast driving around town. I still don't understand how the air conditioner would get hurt if it wasn't hooked directly to the duct. If the air is on anyway all we are doing is pulling some of the cool air from the footwell to the airbox. Instead of pulling the hot air from off of the hot pavement you'd be sucking in 70 or so cooler air from the cabin to mix with the hot air already coming in from the front.

RedY2KS2k

Do the arithmetic. A 2-liter engine filling the cylinders, say, 50 times per second (at 6000 rpm). That's around 25 gallons of air per second. How much effect do you think the output of the A/C on that volume of air flow?

Let us know how this works out for you.