air box cover? myth or truth?
#11
Originally Posted by SpitfireS
Btw.. I do not see the relation between 4.44 / 4.77 gears and 18" wheels.
As long as the revs-per-mile are equal to the OEM 16" or OEM 17" wheel&tire, 18" wheels with the right tires will not change anything.
Gears do.
Actually: high(er) profile tires on 18" wheels (less rev-per-mile) will do the opposite of higher diff gear ratio's.
As long as the revs-per-mile are equal to the OEM 16" or OEM 17" wheel&tire, 18" wheels with the right tires will not change anything.
Gears do.
Actually: high(er) profile tires on 18" wheels (less rev-per-mile) will do the opposite of higher diff gear ratio's.
There has been test on same car changing out rear tires with different dia 16, 17, 18, Zero to 60 The smaller dia accelerates faster by a small amount .1 sec or so. Larger wheels ride better and go further each rev thus faster overall speed. Kinetic energy and enertia play a big factor in all this also. To me go with what you like and removing weight seems to be more of a plus than dia. I like the stock setup.
The air lid stays on my s I trust the advice here and it looks better. I did gut the inners though.
#12
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Lets get truck tires then...
I think that's what I said.
Hmmm... also sounds a lot like what I said.
If the engine is strong enough, especially in 6th.
18" wheels put more "heavy" material at a larger radius from the centre, IOW create more inertia, make it harder to speed up the wheel.
Going from the OEM 16" 5-spoke to JDM 16" 6-spoke forged wheels I also notice it a little bit.
Light wheels with most of the mass close to the centre is best.
In case of airbox lid:
You can always go RadMat.
Proven to work.
IAT sensor readings taken during DD show the IAT is lower in traffic and drops faster when the speed goes up again.
But it looks kinda....
Allthough you do not see it with the hood closed.
.. But the overall wheel height/dia of is part of your final gear ratio.
The smaller dia accelerates faster by a small amount .1 sec or so.
and go further each rev thus faster overall speed.
Kinetic energy and enertia play a big factor in all this also.
Going from the OEM 16" 5-spoke to JDM 16" 6-spoke forged wheels I also notice it a little bit.
Light wheels with most of the mass close to the centre is best.
In case of airbox lid:
You can always go RadMat.
Proven to work.
IAT sensor readings taken during DD show the IAT is lower in traffic and drops faster when the speed goes up again.
But it looks kinda....
Allthough you do not see it with the hood closed.
#13
Done many roll on tests many years ago.
Do a third gear roll with 2 stock S2000s, one with lid on, other off.
The car with the lid on will pull away, quite a bit, every time.
Switch the lid to the other car, and it will pull away no problem.
Lid off=HP loss, fact. I estimate it is between 12-16hp loss based on the roll on test.
Do a third gear roll with 2 stock S2000s, one with lid on, other off.
The car with the lid on will pull away, quite a bit, every time.
Switch the lid to the other car, and it will pull away no problem.
Lid off=HP loss, fact. I estimate it is between 12-16hp loss based on the roll on test.
There is enough air moving around the box at that speed that the radiator does not pose a significant threat to IAT's.
Not disputing Billman, but there are too many variables. 12hp - 16hp is rather a large loss, considering that the K&N adds power...
The only time I noticed a vast difference was in stop and go traffic.
Best thing to do is try it yourself, or get on the dyno with some big fans and close the hood
#15
It’s not just the IAT increase with the lid of the intake, it changes the flow character, its a tuned intake. When you pull the lid of you are disrupting this on a stock tuned car. I’ve played around with this in the past like every other S owner back in the day, and you can indisputably feel the difference, the car feels sluggish, there is no more kick in vtec, it just doesn’t pull like it does with the lid on. Feels like your on the primary cam all the way to redline.
#17
Two more points.
1) The 18" posts here are pure BS. The AP1 came with a 16" wheel. If you go 17" it is known as +1, 18" is +2, etc. The tires that go on these wheels have correspondingly reduced sidewalls. The overall diameter of the wheel tire combo remains the same. A +2 18" set up has a smaller sidewalls, is stiffer, and therefore more responsive. This is the reason many use them for racing. For street use the +2 can be problematic, mostly related to cracked wheels from pot holes. I run 17's as a best of both worlds approach.
2) In the future try posting a request in Wanted to Buy for a part like an air filter cover. Many were removed within days and are available for cheap if not just shipping charge.
Utah
1) The 18" posts here are pure BS. The AP1 came with a 16" wheel. If you go 17" it is known as +1, 18" is +2, etc. The tires that go on these wheels have correspondingly reduced sidewalls. The overall diameter of the wheel tire combo remains the same. A +2 18" set up has a smaller sidewalls, is stiffer, and therefore more responsive. This is the reason many use them for racing. For street use the +2 can be problematic, mostly related to cracked wheels from pot holes. I run 17's as a best of both worlds approach.
2) In the future try posting a request in Wanted to Buy for a part like an air filter cover. Many were removed within days and are available for cheap if not just shipping charge.
Utah
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