Shadow_S2K

Good luck man...the key is to not drive it and cause any further damage. Hope everything works out for you...and If there is any damage I hope your mechanic will own up to his mistake.

VTECorona

Even if your motor sucks up water from a deep puddle or whatever you're not always screwed. My GSR sucked up water in a flash flood we had -- luckily my motor was just idling. The next day I drained oil (there was about 20oz of water in there) changed plugs, new oil, cranked out water from cylinders, replaced oil and fired it up. Cranked fine with no weird sounds, next day did a compression test and tested fine across the board, max variation was 5psi. My GSR ran fine up until the day it got stolen -- I pray the motor shits on the new owner. I guess you just have to pray that the water fouls the plugs before doing a compression stroke. If your engine is revving fast then forget about it.

jSpOt7

i figured out what it was....one of my spark plugs (denso iridiums) tip came lose for some reason that caused it to sputter and backfire. changed the spark plugs and everything is fine. thanx for the concern though

Fishfryer527

Please excuse my 'newbieness' (I've only had my car 2 weeks) but are these cold air intakes really worth it? I've read claims of +15HP but if that much free power was floating around it would make sense that Honda would have done it at the factory.

BTW is an oiled filter safe for the mass air sensor (if a s2000 even has one) I've been told to avoid them?

Shadow_S2K

The most you will get out of a CAI set up is prolly in the area of 3-5hp. But it does provide a very "mean" sound when hitting Vtec. But I think any intake will prolly only get you around that much, meaning snorkle type, CAI, or short ram.

I don't see a problem with using Oiled filters, since AEM and INJEN and K&N I believe all use it.

SPLNDID

I should think that there is a lot to consider about cold air intakes.
You would want the coolest, and therefore most dense oxygen air you could cram into your intake manifold. The slight bit of air routed to the stock airbox is sucked in by the intake's delta pressure. If one could supply a positive pressure before the air filter - and that air was not thinned by heat from the engine - then one could appreciate positive gains in fule-to-air mixture and power.
The snorkel approach works well for drag enthusiasts as the track should be dry and cool air is scooped up by the area around the front passenger fender.
But for day-to-day driveability and weekend track work, the shroud should shove in the coolest air into the stock airbox. (A High-flow filter is a plus here too...)
Take a look at this design...

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...T&f=5&t=274942

Remember that the stock stook is delivered to be drivable through many delivered locations. Warm air is desireable in cold climates. Also note that the intake manifold is heated through engine coolant to make the engine work in colder climates.
In the Phoenix area, the warmer air suction and intake warming is not required... and in fact becomes robs us of HP because the air is already warm and thin.
For my stook, I'm getting the cool air shroud - which should shove the coolest air in to the stock airbox - without cutting or modifying... And, I plan on shutting off the engine coolant to the intake manifold - which actually heats it up...
Also, I have a K&N, drop-in filter - which should help airflow.
K&N stickers on the stock airbox should increase HP by .5 HP
So, It all depends on where you live and how you drive your stook.

Have fun!

CB

Utah S2K

I could post a lot here but I'll bite my tongue:

Hydrolock- Is caused by the the fact that water will not compress well (it hurts when you belly flop in the pool). It takes a ton of water to not compress, in fact a method of improving combustion is increasing moisture-density of charge. If the charge can't compress (is solid H2O slug) you bend a valve.

Bypass Valves- Essentially worthless. If your that afraid drill a hole in the low end of the system.

Driving Rain- The AEM filter lives in a very secure area. If you park on a slope in Hawaii with torrential downpour there may be an issue. You failed to note if you cut the interior wall by the radiator or did a Coastal Metal vent install. It takes a TON of water to fail an AEM.

Plug condition- The plug was wet. How do you know it wasn't running rich?

Changed Oil- Enough said............

Utah

jSpOt7

utah- im running rich but only one plug failed and the rest were fine. the tip of the plug was loose when i pulled out the plugs.

-joe

rworne

Actually water (liquid) does not compress at all. When doing water injection, a mist is sprayed into the air-fuel mixture and it's the air volume that compresses -- there's just less air to compress.

It really should not take much water to cause hydrolock damage. Anything slightly more than the volume of a cylinder during the maximum compression (minimum volume) should be enough.

AP1ByDesign

Glad to see there were no problems Joe!