MacGyver

If you look at the dyno carefully, you'll see what those of us with the intakes have seen...on average, about a 5-7 hp increase, with the ocassional spike to maybe 12 hp, after 3500 rpm and up (my guess for the spikes would be the tube hitting a resonance at around 3700 and 6200 rpm). Torque gain numbers look to be similar...

IMO, this alone was worth the $150-$200 investment. Not to mention the nice, new growl I hear when entering the VTEC region, and it makes oil changes a lot easier.

supwithyou

Just installed my AEM Cold Air and it made one hell of a difference. It just started getting cool down here(about 67degrees), and i can now chirp 3rd gear.

Also the car has a lot less low end bog, if any at all. I can finally also pull all of 5th gear and pull some of 6th. I drilled holes in my factory scoop next to the intake, and drove the whole first day it was on in the rain.

After a few hours of hard driving(and spinning/getting sideways etc), i brought the car in the garage and took the filter off. The filter was completely dry even after hours in the rain. The filter gets positioned in a spot where it is very difficult for water to get to it unless you submerge the front end under.

In conclusion for $200 you cannot beat the performance you get out of it. The sound at WOT is just sick too!

ExOdy

The colder it is, the bigger difference it will make. It's a good investment for the money you spend.

tenblade2001

I was in this same situation. I did a lot or research and posting and found out several things. First, AEM/Injen, et al can hydrolock (Jeff at Ganley Honda has a guys S2000 there now that blew the #4 cylinder due to hydrolock. True, you can get a bypass valve, but everything I've read about it says it sucks.....owners loose any power gains from the CAI. I recently intalled the PRM intake (above the bumper intake that pulls air from the wheel well) and am VERY pleased with it. Good midrange and GREAT higher end pull. The sound is awsome. Check out the thread "10 good people needed for PRM GB" for details. The GB already went down, but you still might like what you read.
10blade

dolebludger

Tenblade 2001: Good information. I've pretty well decided to go with SOMETHING mounted above the bumper for the reasons you mention, if I make any changes at all. One other option that pulls cool air from the fender well is a Costal Metals unit that uses the stock filter box, and runs a 3" hose from it to the hole in the passenger's side fender well. Unlike the PRM, the CM unit mounts directly over this hole, and seals to it. It is combined with real vents in the bumber sides to replace those "fakes" that are stock, to get just a tad of "ram air" through the fender well. As the hose from the filter box stops at the engine compartment opening to the filter air and doesn't connect to the side vent, I don't see any way that water could be sucked from the side vent. If it were, the water would accumulate in the bottom of the stock filter box , and would have to be nearly full to get onto the air filter element.

Do you, or anyone else, have any experience with this CM unit and know whether it REALLY adds to performance or not?

Thanks,
Richard.

MacGyver

A #4 cylinder ONLY blowing from hydrolock doesn't seem right. I would expect all 4 cylinders to receive some damage from hydrolocking an engine, especially since the #4 would be the LAST cylinder to receive a water intake, being the furthest from the intake entrance (#1 would suck up a huge amount before #4). A more likely explanation is the guy had the #4 cylinder issues previously mentioned over the past year or so.

VERY few people have hydrolocked their engine, from what I've seen thread-wise so far (maybe 3 I can think of offhand?)...one of which was with the STOCK airbox These cars are not SUVs, so if you treat them with the respect they deserve, I see hydrolocking as a non-issue. Rain is not a problem, as it only emulates water misters that have been in use for years. The only possibility left is totally submerging the pipe in water with some throttle. At idle, our engines will most likely conk out before it can create enough vacuum to suck the water up more than a few inches into the tube (this is a 3" tube!).

Yellow Streak

For those of you that are claiming that a CAI (PRM, Comptech) pulls air from the wheel well, can you please explain to me how there is a supply of ambient air in the wheel well?

-YS

dolebludger

Yellow Streak: Here is what I've been told. What we are really talking about here is not the true wheel well, but is the cavity between the front bumper and the wheel well, all on the passsenger's side. If you look into that 3" or so hole in the side on the engine compartment sheet metal just to the left of the stock air box, and look down, you'll see that the bottom of this cavity is far from airtight. The theory is that the temp. of the air in that cavity would be lower than that in the engine compartment. So air drawn from there would be cooler.

But, from what I've been told, to get whatever advantage available from a CAI drawing air from this cavity, you need to replace the fake side vent with a functional one. (Of course, you'd replace the driver's side bumper vent also, just so the thing wouldn't look stupid.)

Here again, remember that I'm asking, not telling where CAI is concerned. But to me, this type of CAI (as opposed to those that hang the exposed filter low in the engine compartment) seems to make sense.

Thanks,
Richard

Yellow Streak

[QUOTE]Originally posted by dolebludger
[B]Yellow Streak: Here is what I've been told. What we are really talking about here is not the true wheel well, but is the cavity between the front bumper and the wheel well, all on the passsenger's side. If you look

tenblade2001

Richard,
PM "Russ"...this guy has forgotten more on this subject than I will ever now. He's friendly and very knowledgeable.
steve