Billman250

Brand new 2.2L short block, use your cylinder head.

Find a way to limit revs to 8300-8400, and drop VTEC to 5500. This will give you the nice wide power band that the ap1 motor had.

With ap1 engines getting hard to find, rebuilds being morbid money, and most builds burning oil like crazy because most are not competent wit FRM build processes....

This will be my plan of action in years to come with the AP1s. And it will be way less than 8k.

Brand new short block installed at my shop right now is around 4800. motor, fluids, headbolts, head gasket, TCT, labor, and guarantee.

That price is robbery. At that price it better have a one year written warranty and 2k mail in rebate.

Billman250

If you were one quart low on oil, I assure you it did not cause your problem. Piston ribs and rings can carry oil many many times longer than a bearing can go with out oil pressure. It only takes a second of lost pressure on a rod bearing for it to spin and shread.

I would remove the #2 oil jet and do a complete inspection on it and the banjo bolt. If you scored a cyl, it could have plugged up. Contaminants can sit right on top of the bolt and block it's flow.

AP1/oil jet bolt/cylinder liner damage only comes into play under sustained high speed operation...holding you foot to the floor in one gear for 15 seconds or more (think about that). Or, forced induction. Any scenario that drives the piston temp up without proper cooling. Decelerating provides a major cool down for the pistons. Expect a scored cylinder within a week on an FI engine with the early style bolts. I've seen it first hand, and read it too many times.

Out of 12 engines or so that I have done, all low oil, 100% of them had a spun bearing. None had cylinder wall damage.

Your shiny flakes are likely cylinder material, if you have a scored cylinder.

LAp1

in reference to sustained high speed operation...i recently got new blizzaks on the car so i made a few high speed pulls (80-120) on the highway on dry sunny days...this very well may be the reason for the cylinder wall scoring due to excess temps after holding accelerator to the floor for approximately 15 seconds...i did these pulls after 45-50 minutes of driving at highway speed (75-80mph) so that may have just added to the high heat problem...

within the next week or so ill pull the pan and inspect cyl#2 oil jet and banjo bolt when i have some free time...im curious to see if this was caused by a malfunctioning part of my own lack of responsibility...

meanwhile, a good friend of mine is loaning me his subaru outback in trade for a brake job on it ...this will give me all the time i need to make a sound decision, shop around for most cost effective parts, and do all the labor myself to avoid paying a mechanic an arm and a leg...also just a great a learning experience at the end of the day....

what would you guys think would be my best bang for the buck for my new motor? either way i have to pull the motor...mating the f22 block to my existing f20 head will only take extra time and labor...would the extra .2 liter of displacement give me enough power benefits to compensate for the extra labor over just swapping in a JDM f20c? if i swap in new motor i will have lots of parts i could sell to offset the cost of everything compared to if I just mate the f22 block to my existing head I won't really have anything left over afterward...thoughts?

05thumper

I've done many gear pulls in my AP1. I'm not sure this actually causes an issue. I thought it was sustained high speed (5k+ rpm) for hours on end that caused problems.

MR.T

I think billman was talking about doing the high rpm's with low oil. These cars are designed to stay way up there.

LAp1

exactly^