Advice for built motor, HELP
09-04-2015, 10:08 AM
#1
Advice for built motor, HELP
Okay guys, looking for some input here. I have a fully built 10:1 F20C (details at bottom) that is close to being completed, and I'm extremely worried about one thing that could be a big issue. The headgasket. The idiots at the machine shop that decked my block cut WAY TOO MUCH off of it, and short version, the stock 0.030 head gasket is too thin now. I have full confidence in the mechanic building and assembling the motor for me, and he wasn't involved with the deck issue. (Previous owner I bought the disassembled shortblock from did that). Result is, with the head still uncut, I need a 0.060 head gasket to make up the lost block material, and keep the compression ratio the same. (10:1 Comp CP pistons). The plan was to use ARP head studs.
- Now, Cometic makes a 0.060 HG that will make up the lost area, but the more research I do, the more scared I am getting about using ARP studs and a Cometic gasket, as the ARP studs seem to have a horrible lifespan on these cars, and even lower with MLS gaskets.
-At the moment, the car is NOT boosted, but will be in the future (built for future boost). Car is currently dailyed, but will not be whenever the time for forced induction comes. The goal is an easy 420-470 hp, not any more.
-I've got a couple of possible ideas / thoughts, and I want to get some opinions / feedback.
- 1 - If torqued properly, letting them sit and retorque after, following all precautions for studs AND gasket, the ARP's should be fine with the Cometic gasket FOR NOW, while N/A. Whether they would hold later, who knows.
- 2 - Use a set of new OEM Honda head bolts instead of the ARP studs. I don't really have any reason to think they would fail at that power level (420-470), and certainly not N/A, but the added height concerns me, even as insignificant as it is, as everyone seems to switch when using thicker gaskets.
- 3 - Suck it up, and try to find a set of FBM H11's, as I am certain they will hold from all reviews and research.
- 4 - Or, last option, try option 1 for now, using the ARP's while N/A, and find a set of the FBM H11's to switch to for boost later. I would need to predrill the head for them, and possibly use an extra dowel or two to make sure everything is aligned properly without them.
Situation absolutely sucks, but I have so much money in the stupid thing, the only way to move is forward.
- Any advice is appreciated.
Engine build list, for reference.
Block -
OEM crank
Darton dry sleeves
CP 10:1 pistons
BC rods
ACL std. size bearings
Head -
Supertech 92 lb dual valve springs
Supertech Steel retainers (for longevity, may switch to TI for FI) (popular among K-series owners)
Ferrea valve locks / keepers
Supertech valve guides
OEM valve seals
Ferrea 6000 series valves
OEM cams
- Now, Cometic makes a 0.060 HG that will make up the lost area, but the more research I do, the more scared I am getting about using ARP studs and a Cometic gasket, as the ARP studs seem to have a horrible lifespan on these cars, and even lower with MLS gaskets.
-At the moment, the car is NOT boosted, but will be in the future (built for future boost). Car is currently dailyed, but will not be whenever the time for forced induction comes. The goal is an easy 420-470 hp, not any more.
-I've got a couple of possible ideas / thoughts, and I want to get some opinions / feedback.
- 1 - If torqued properly, letting them sit and retorque after, following all precautions for studs AND gasket, the ARP's should be fine with the Cometic gasket FOR NOW, while N/A. Whether they would hold later, who knows.
- 2 - Use a set of new OEM Honda head bolts instead of the ARP studs. I don't really have any reason to think they would fail at that power level (420-470), and certainly not N/A, but the added height concerns me, even as insignificant as it is, as everyone seems to switch when using thicker gaskets.
- 3 - Suck it up, and try to find a set of FBM H11's, as I am certain they will hold from all reviews and research.
- 4 - Or, last option, try option 1 for now, using the ARP's while N/A, and find a set of the FBM H11's to switch to for boost later. I would need to predrill the head for them, and possibly use an extra dowel or two to make sure everything is aligned properly without them.
Situation absolutely sucks, but I have so much money in the stupid thing, the only way to move is forward.
- Any advice is appreciated.
Engine build list, for reference.
Block -
OEM crank
Darton dry sleeves
CP 10:1 pistons
BC rods
ACL std. size bearings
Head -
Supertech 92 lb dual valve springs
Supertech Steel retainers (for longevity, may switch to TI for FI) (popular among K-series owners)
Ferrea valve locks / keepers
Supertech valve guides
OEM valve seals
Ferrea 6000 series valves
OEM cams
09-04-2015, 12:02 PM
#2
I'm not sure why ARP has a bad rep here; if you search you'll find a ton of people using these without issue. ARP makes some very high quality fasteners. Any failures is user error - torque, assembly lube type, etc.
Regarding the FullBlown studs, they are simply a rebadged item. A1 Technologies makes the headstuds and you can buy it from them directly. I recently learned this myself here: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/113...-hp-headbolts/
I dont think head-studs will be your issue. Like you stated it's the headgasket. I can see the Cometic piece giving you trouble in the long run.
Regarding the FullBlown studs, they are simply a rebadged item. A1 Technologies makes the headstuds and you can buy it from them directly. I recently learned this myself here: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/113...-hp-headbolts/
I dont think head-studs will be your issue. Like you stated it's the headgasket. I can see the Cometic piece giving you trouble in the long run.
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