Adding wheel spacers
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Adding wheel spacers
I'm running rear AP1 wheels with a 245 tire on the front for the track. Those have an offset of +65. If I wanted to add 5-10mm of wheel spacer, how hard is it to swap out to longer wheel studs? Estimated time?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Shouldnt take a real long time. Ive changed out mine on the rear tires before on a different car in about 30 mins to an hour. You pretty much just hammer them in (to remove them) and then slide them in from the backside. You then put the tire on and as you tighten the lug nuts, it pulls the wheel stud into place. Then pull the wheel off to make sure they are seated properly.
#3
Registered User
Originally Posted by Swimshady,Jun 25 2007, 09:55 AM
Shouldnt take a real long time. Ive changed out mine on the rear tires before on a different car in about 30 mins to an hour. You pretty much just hammer them in (to remove them) and then slide them in from the backside. You then put the tire on and as you tighten the lug nuts, it pulls the wheel stud into place. Then pull the wheel off to make sure they are seated properly.
seriously, i did that for a POS 240 with a block of wood and BFH but not for a sub 30k car, have the shop press it out instead.
you should be fine running a 5mm spacer without extended studs, just make sure the spacer is made well(hub centric, even surface and predrilled hold), not some casted soft metal disk with a bunch of randon holes
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by iam7head,Jun 25 2007, 03:49 PM
which could damage the hub and the whole shebang if you don't do it right.
seriously, i did that for a POS 240 with a block of wood and BFH but not for a sub 30k car, have the shop press it out instead.
you should be fine running a 5mm spacer without extended studs, just make sure the spacer is made well(hub centric, even surface and predrilled hold), not some casted soft metal disk with a bunch of randon holes
seriously, i did that for a POS 240 with a block of wood and BFH but not for a sub 30k car, have the shop press it out instead.
you should be fine running a 5mm spacer without extended studs, just make sure the spacer is made well(hub centric, even surface and predrilled hold), not some casted soft metal disk with a bunch of randon holes
Swimshady, you're on crack if you think it would only take 30 minute to an hour to do. You've got to jack the car up, remove wheel, bang 'em out(which never come out right), install new ones, replace wheel, lower car... all times two.
#5
Former Moderator
Skip,
To properly replace wheel studs the hub needs to be removed from the knuckle, which pulls the wheel bearing apart. You have to remove the wheel bearing race from the hub, press out the old wheel bearing and press in the new one. It's not a 30 minute hammer job.
Figure 2 new wheel bearings, plus studs.
To properly replace wheel studs the hub needs to be removed from the knuckle, which pulls the wheel bearing apart. You have to remove the wheel bearing race from the hub, press out the old wheel bearing and press in the new one. It's not a 30 minute hammer job.
Figure 2 new wheel bearings, plus studs.
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Slows2k,Jun 25 2007, 07:03 PM
Skip,
To properly replace wheel studs the hub needs to be removed from the knuckle, which pulls the wheel bearing apart. You have to remove the wheel bearing race from the hub, press out the old wheel bearing and press in the new one. It's not a 30 minute hammer job.
Figure 2 new wheel bearings, plus studs.
To properly replace wheel studs the hub needs to be removed from the knuckle, which pulls the wheel bearing apart. You have to remove the wheel bearing race from the hub, press out the old wheel bearing and press in the new one. It's not a 30 minute hammer job.
Figure 2 new wheel bearings, plus studs.
Your thoughts on 3mm- okay with stock studs? 5mm needs replacements, right?
#7
Former Moderator
3mm is close with stock studs. I'd have to break out a caliper and measure the wheel hub thickness. As a general rule you want all of the stud to be threaded into the lug (easy to verify if you have open ended lugs) IIRC, The NHRA requires at least the studs diameter to be threaded past the end of the lug.
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#8
Skip, ARP studs will give you the length you need, but I have done this job and expect to replace the bearings as they need to be pressed off the hub. They can studs NOT be hamered out from behind like others. You will need to have to remove the nuckle as previously posted.
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