J's_Suzuka

So, I removed/installed a new oil pan. I applied the Hondabond and waited little roughly an hour and poured very little oil into the motor to see if there were any leaks.

Lo-and-behold, there is a leak coming from the area sitting with the transmission. Now, my question is, did not wait long enough for the hondabond to cure and dry?

Or did I apply too little hondabond in that area? I applied it as evenly and thinly as possible just as the tube directed.

Finally, do I need to remove the pan again and remove all the old honda bond,re-apply, and re-install again? (that's going to be a real bitch..)

cenix

the time you waited for the hondabond to set seems fine.

there are two issues to make sure you do properly. 1st is to install the bolts in the proper order (from the middle to the outside if that makes sense). 2nd is to torque the bolts to spec (8.7 lb-ft).

if you're unsure of all these things i wouldn't take the chance of running with the leak. do it over.

J's_Suzuka

I followed the 21 bolt diagram precisely. I had two torque wrenches on hand, but both started @ around 25-30 lbs so I didn't risk using them. I am going to pick up a dial one or a lighter torque wrench before normal daily driving.

But, it is leaking from the corner area. It stopped leaking about a couple of minutes ago because I didn't add that much.

zeroptzero

because it is on the oil pan I would run it a bit thicker, they use thin layers on the cam areas of other Hondas so that is likely what the tube label is referring to. I would add it a bit thicker on the oil pan, you can't harm anything, just don't go overboard, make sure it is a continuous bead if possible.

ChefJ

I thought it said to let it cure for 12-24 hrs?? I could be wrong. I guess the climate could come into play as far as humidity and temperature. I just couldn't trust it after only an hour.

J's_Suzuka

So, you think that the bond is completely messed up at the leaking point? Right now, I am letting it sit until tomorrow where I will add more oil to see if it is leaking.

If so, then I guess I have to do it all over again. Plus side, I think I can get it done in 30 mins or so.

Just need to pick up a dial type torque wrench, because the ones I have now are too strong.

zeroptzero

yeah try waiting a bit and see if the extra curing time helped, if not you will have to pull it again. When you ran the bead of sealant did you go around the inside line of the bolt holes ?, if you run it along the outside line or skip over the bolt holes they will leak. Just checking. BTW, the manual only requires 30 minutes of cure time before adding oil, I'd wait a bit longer than that just as a precaution. But I think you likely just ran the sealant too thin. Run it as a bead , don't spread it on, that way it will compress and spread to fill any irregularities in the mating surfaces of the two parts when they get bolted up.

J's_Suzuka

Yea, I ran it as a bead, then smeared it thin. As thin as I could get it. It's not surprising that it sprung a leak if I think about it now.. Haha

Anyways thanks for all the inputs. I guess its time go remove that bitch again.

spets

a torque wrench that can go low enough is important, we want it evenly tightened.

When I changed the oil pan on my Integra, I had an inch-lb torque wrench and I tightened it in steps.. first just snugged it up, then to 4 ft-lb, then to 9 ft-lb. working my way center to outbd. No leaks.

J's_Suzuka

All of mine start @ 20lbs and up. I can't seem to find one lighter other than the one with the dial handle which I hate using. I guess I have no choice. Plus, I think I already over tighten one of them.

Best case scenario, I didn't **** up the brand new oil pan.