PeanutButter

Dont know Im trying to figure that out as we speak...


The rear prop valve has 4 lines to it.

1. Going from the MC to the prop valve
2. Going from the ABS mod. to the prop valve

3 and 4. Going to the back brakes..

So Im trying to find out what to do about the rear MC.

Then the front I will move on to

squirrels2k

ssms2k - the linelock is simply a solenoid that, when activated, holds pressure on your front brakes so you can do a burnout without moving. it's used to heat up your slicks in the water pit when drag racing.

macprotege5 - the extra throttle cable point isn't needed. the other two points hold the cable up very well. if your not going to b staging the car at the drag stip that often the you don't need the linelock. you can just T the line off to the brakes.

PeanutButter - for the rear line, your going to need a -3a/n T and two more of the brake adapter fittings that were needed for the master cylinder. as soon as my T's come in I'll put the prop valve setup together and take some more pics for yall. sorry i'm going so slow the install.

PeanutButter

Actually wouldnt a Y be better than a T?

INTJ

I love that drive!

INTJ

You can get a hardline kit for cheap and just do the bends and forming yourself. Well worth it for safety and pedal feel!

I would definitely get a manual proportioning valve. The factory bias is way to the front for racing IMHO and removing it just makes matters worse.

Asura is right if you can afford it, the dual Tiltons are nice.

2QYK4U

Thanks for posting that pic Nathan! I just finished draining my brake fluid and am going to remove my VSA system. I'd like to talk to you more about where to go from there.