Billman250

Right pull under braking is a sticking LF caliper.

Even I don't have an explanation of why stock rotors last so long. Possible they may be denser.

Stock rotors are not centric blanks I assure you.

Bama Dave

One question when did you start using the ATE Blue DOT 4 Fluid. I had a problem with my passenger front stcking on my S2000. The Dot 3 and Dot 4 fluids don't mix. It was causing the that calipers to stick and I could feel the heat on the rim. At highway speed the wheel would start bouncing and the rim got so hot you couldn't touch it. Had to reflush the brake fluid and my problems went away. Lucky I guess. Good luck with your issues, Billman or Chris should be able to help you out man. Later David

s2000maniac

if the caster is off on right the car will pull to right when the brakes are applied.

iamxpl

also clean the new rotor properly. simply spraying brake cleaner on it will not clean it. ^^ as mentioned above bed in the pads properly and check for a sticking rotor. that would cause the pulling.

speakeasy2009

Guys thanks so much for all the replies. The rotors don't feel warped when I run my finger over them but these rotors are doing the SAME thing the last 2 sets did. Im using the posi-quiet semi-metallic pads because the last set of ceramics were toast early and I didn’t feel like replacing pads all the time.

I put on the new rotors and the brakes are great. Pedal feels fine, no vibration at all. About 3 months later in all cases I start to feel slight vibration when braking at high speeds. The vibration starts to get worse and I feel it most when I’m decelerating from 60 to 40. I feel vibration in the pedal and the car itself. Currently im starting to feel the vibration again. And when coming to s a stop I feel unevenness in either the rotor or the pads felt through the pedal. I get new rotors and the issue is gone, then reappears months later.

Ill try new pads and see what happens. I can see the prior aftermarket rotors warping but I did not expect this from the Centric Premiums. The car needs an alignment big time and new tires. The drivers side front tire is very worn on the inside, really worn almost 1/4 a way across the tread. Same on the pass side but not as bad.

freq

Pretty sure the general consensus here is that you aren't "warping" your rotors. What you are experiencing is pad build-up / pad deposits on the rotor. Stop replacing rotors.

I have had good luck with removing the rotors and hitting them as hard as i could by hand with a green 3M scuff pad. Thoughts from the senior wrenches?

speakeasy2009

I was wondering about doing the same thing. I will def give that a try and appreciate all the input from you guys..

SpitfireS

Sure that works.
It will bring you back to zero.
If you do not follow up with a proper bed-in, the uneven pad deposit, ect, will happen again, and again.

Polaris0352

I'm pretty sure you won't be able to feel a warped rotor just by running your finger across it. If they were warped, it would only be a few thousandths out of true axially. Try what's been suggested. Proper bed in is critical. Oh, someone mentioned the left caliper would pull right if sticking. I'd have to disagree and say that's backwards. Good luck.

Utah S2K

Since you asked; definitely not rotor wear nor build up IMHO. My guess is your have a rotor run out issue; caused by crud (I.e. Rust) at the rotor/hub interface. The little bastard rotor crews when torqued will seat it correctly (anyone who has removed them knows why I call them little bastards). Many people do not reinstall them as they never want to see them again. That said get a dial indicator to measure run out (and tire or brake shop can do it for you). The indicator should be placed to measue ~.400" inboard from the OD of the rotor. If it exceeds .004" you need to find out why; again IMHO not a warped rotor. Wire brush the S$&@ out of everything and reinstall. The little bastard screws are an be effective in bringing them into specification. Rotor run out is your issue (100% sure) you just need to find why......

Utah