hirev

My son and i just did my brakes and I want to share a bit about it. The cost via tirerack was about $400 for 4 centric/stoptech cryo replacement rotors and 4 sets of hawk pads, I went with hawk hps padds and not track specific. the rotors are not drilled or slotted, i don't care for the pad wear on them. the car has 75k on it and the fronts were replaced 25k ago and the rears never. old pads were shot on one front wheel and 50% wear on other front, these were stock honda pads and rotors replaced 25k aqo and the wear was normal. the rears were original and worn more evenly, although one wheel had more wear than the other, maybe 50% gone.

I had no symptoms of brake pulling or fade, i did not feel the pedal and stopping response was great any longer....my son was right to insist we inspect with the wheels off.

It all went on easily, except the rears require a special tool to turn the plunger into the caliper, we used a screw driver and some elbow grease. On the fronts we used some elbow grease and a tool or two to re-position the plunger.

bleeder screw on one wheel was stripped, can't say who did that, but I am getting 4 new bleeder screws and will bleed brakes again.
Stopping power on new brakes, even properly seated, is not as good as it will be in a few hundred miles and it is better than it was right out of the box, abs locks up faster and brakes really come on a tad better.

Took almost 2 hours, 4 jack stands used. A real improvement. You could not tell from an inspection how badly the one pad on one wheel was, would have hit the screamers soon. it was a ton of fun.

gptoyz

In the future just use a 3/8th ratchet in the rear, it works.

You could buy the little cube tool but that just takes longer.

As far as the front cylinder, a 5" c clamp makes short work of pushing the piston back in the caliper.

Make sure before anything that you open the reservoir cap and make sure to soak up brake fluid to the min line to make sure it doesn't spill over as you retract all 4 Pistons.

Car Analogy

Or better yet, open the bleeder before you compress caliper piston, so you aren't forcing dirty fluid backwards through all that sensitive ABS plumbing.

Sent from my SM-G920P using IB AutoGroup

hirev

An fyi, we re bled the brakes and there was a ton of dirty fluid that forcing the rear caliper open pushed out, this was probably brake dirt from when the car was new as this is the first rear brakes to be put on. so, just a good FYI and thank you for that.