2003 Honda S2000 Engine Rebuild
07-20-2020, 11:22 AM
#11
You need to do a leak-down to find out where that lost compression in cylinders 1 & 3 is going. 
07-20-2020, 11:29 AM
#12
EEK, you should be closer to 200 on each cylinder at the very least! There are some very good shops in SoCal that specialize in our cars, I would trust either Rockstar, Alan Lee, or Infinite Motion to take a real look and figure out whats going on.
07-20-2020, 12:46 PM
#13
Is the oil/fluid coming from blown shocks? Look for the source of where the fluid is coming from. Check to see if the shock bodies are wet or not. Brakes is really the only other source of fluid at each corner of car.
07-20-2020, 01:13 PM
#14
This may be a Honda, but this car and particularly the engine requires exotic car level care and knowledge.
As this point, an used engine is the least hassle-free way to revive this vehicle. The 1st step is a complete diagnosis of the engine: Leakdown, compression, oil pressure, cooling system pressure test at minimum. Since there are so many things that appear wrong and it isn't even clear what's wrong, one should approach this assuming anything could be wrong.
As this point, an used engine is the least hassle-free way to revive this vehicle. The 1st step is a complete diagnosis of the engine: Leakdown, compression, oil pressure, cooling system pressure test at minimum. Since there are so many things that appear wrong and it isn't even clear what's wrong, one should approach this assuming anything could be wrong.
07-20-2020, 01:16 PM
#15
not true, CNC Speed shop (wadzii on s2ki), inlinePRO, and the list goes on lol... even my local machine shop before he went out of business did it, it's the same for h22, k20 and f20/f22's you just need the appropriate stones and clearances.
07-20-2020, 01:40 PM
#16
Such a following,this thread 
07-20-2020, 02:05 PM
#17
As stated before... leak down test. That is the only definitive test that can be done and will answer all of your questions as to what to rebuild/replace. Since it is an AP1, there is an above average chance that there are bent valves causing compression loss.
07-20-2020, 04:58 PM
#18
Registered User
Those cars didn't rev quite as high as the S2000 (redline was 7.5k I believe) so perhaps that has something to do with it. But it seems the s2000 experience is much different on rebuilds.
07-20-2020, 08:20 PM
#19
im at 60,000 miles on a rebuilt F20C1 with an F22C1 crank, F20 rods and i honestly forget what pistons i threw in. all components from different blocks and my rod/main bearings are one-size-fits-all ACL bearings.... for an H22.. hahaha
to be fair though, my motor's in questionable condition now and i suspect it's nearing the end of it's life.
to be fair though, my motor's in questionable condition now and i suspect it's nearing the end of it's life.
07-20-2020, 10:56 PM
#20
Registered User
Dear All,
I bought a S2000 in Oct 2018 with 107,000 miles on it and put in additional 2000 miles since. I wasn't car savvy so I had paid a Honda dealer to do a pre-purchase inspection before I bought it from a private owner. I requested a scan on the car's computer, but the dealer said they would only scan if there was a check engine light. So I trusted them and the car passed their inspection with flying colors. A BIG MISTAKE!
I use a pay-per-mile auto insurance which requires me to plug a device to the OBD port. It found cylinders 1 and 3 misfiring, and I started to notice rough idling. I bought it to a mechanic who also found misfiring codes on his expensive scanner. He test drove my car but the car was strong, and since there wasn't any check engine light, he thought the misfiring was within tolerance. He cleared the codes and they never came back.
But rough idling continued. I've checked spark plugs and coil packs, and cleaned the throttle body, MAP sensor and IACV. I bought it to a second mechanic and he said my IACV was bad. So I changed it and the car still idled poorly. Finally, this second mechanic did a compression test and found that cylinders 1 and 3 had low compression. He suggested to rebuild the engine or put in a "new" used engine.
I am pissed becoz I've relied on paid professionals but I got burned still. Now I have to make a decision and here are my questions.
1) I've been watching videos on low compression and I think the problem is the piston rings/cylinders, not head gasket or valves. I removed the engine oil cap and there was a breeze (not joking) gushing out and a loud humming noise from it. I think it is a bad blow-by, right?
2) Do you think pouring in a bottle of engine restorer for low compression will help? I doubt it will but still, no harm to ask.
3) I paid $11,000 for the car. The entire rebuild will cost $6-8k which is almost the same price as an engine replacement. But should I ask for a leak-down test to confirm the actual problem(s) and rebuild that part(s) only? Say piston rings/cylinders. Will it save me money? Or once the engine is removed form the car, it is better to redo the whole engine for good?
4) I am in Los Angeles and my mechanic would use either Alameda Motor or Jasper for the rebuild. But I saw unflattering reviews on them. Any suggestions on engine rebuilders in LA? Does Ballade Sports rebuild engines or they also outsource it?
5) Besides the engine, another problem I have is there is oil dripping from wheel nuts and center caps on all four wheels, and also the brake caliper looks wet in the attached video. However, both the first and second mechanics couldn't find leakage from the brakes. And I don't experience any brake fading. What could it be?
Thanks.
Hoy
I bought a S2000 in Oct 2018 with 107,000 miles on it and put in additional 2000 miles since. I wasn't car savvy so I had paid a Honda dealer to do a pre-purchase inspection before I bought it from a private owner. I requested a scan on the car's computer, but the dealer said they would only scan if there was a check engine light. So I trusted them and the car passed their inspection with flying colors. A BIG MISTAKE!
I use a pay-per-mile auto insurance which requires me to plug a device to the OBD port. It found cylinders 1 and 3 misfiring, and I started to notice rough idling. I bought it to a mechanic who also found misfiring codes on his expensive scanner. He test drove my car but the car was strong, and since there wasn't any check engine light, he thought the misfiring was within tolerance. He cleared the codes and they never came back.
But rough idling continued. I've checked spark plugs and coil packs, and cleaned the throttle body, MAP sensor and IACV. I bought it to a second mechanic and he said my IACV was bad. So I changed it and the car still idled poorly. Finally, this second mechanic did a compression test and found that cylinders 1 and 3 had low compression. He suggested to rebuild the engine or put in a "new" used engine.
I am pissed becoz I've relied on paid professionals but I got burned still. Now I have to make a decision and here are my questions.
1) I've been watching videos on low compression and I think the problem is the piston rings/cylinders, not head gasket or valves. I removed the engine oil cap and there was a breeze (not joking) gushing out and a loud humming noise from it. I think it is a bad blow-by, right?
2) Do you think pouring in a bottle of engine restorer for low compression will help? I doubt it will but still, no harm to ask.
3) I paid $11,000 for the car. The entire rebuild will cost $6-8k which is almost the same price as an engine replacement. But should I ask for a leak-down test to confirm the actual problem(s) and rebuild that part(s) only? Say piston rings/cylinders. Will it save me money? Or once the engine is removed form the car, it is better to redo the whole engine for good?
4) I am in Los Angeles and my mechanic would use either Alameda Motor or Jasper for the rebuild. But I saw unflattering reviews on them. Any suggestions on engine rebuilders in LA? Does Ballade Sports rebuild engines or they also outsource it?
5) Besides the engine, another problem I have is there is oil dripping from wheel nuts and center caps on all four wheels, and also the brake caliper looks wet in the attached video. However, both the first and second mechanics couldn't find leakage from the brakes. And I don't experience any brake fading. What could it be?
Thanks.
Hoy