S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

11k red line

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Old 11-05-2007, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by ElGringoLoco,Nov 5 2007, 10:58 AM
I dunno about the driving issue. I have a client who owns 3 GT3s and a 800+ whp Porsche 911 Turbo and he was cruising along at around 80 and mishifted into second instead of fourth. He races with NASA, FARA, SCCA, etc and mishifted. So I don't think it has everything to do with "driving skills". People do make mistakes.
It has to do with driving skills. That's not to say skilled people can't make mistakes. It's just that they make fewer mistakes in the same circumstances.

I installed a set of Ti retainers and dual valve springs in my car for this exact purpose (protecting against overrevs). It's a track-only car, so it sees a lot of redline shifts and only a few hundred hours of operation per year.

I would not choose to do this to a street car, especially a daily driver. Better to just take your time to shift more accurately. The problem on the track is that sometimes when you shift you are also very busy doing something else, and accuracy can degrade.
Old 11-05-2007, 07:25 PM
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on a side note, is it less likely to bend the valves from pinging off the redline in an ap2, or pretty much the same
Old 11-06-2007, 05:30 AM
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There is more involved than just a stronger lighter valvetrane. You will need a full ballence with the crank pully flywheel and pressure plate. The rods will need to be teflon coated. The driveshaft will need to be replaced with a carbonfiber unit. The transmission will be your weak link you will run into the problems the rotory guys run into, a 13b will rev all day but the trans will not take it. It would be a better idea to stroke the motor and buy Skunk2 stage 2 or 3 cams.
Old 11-06-2007, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by jbhondatech,Nov 6 2007, 07:30 AM
There is more involved than just a stronger lighter valvetrane. You will need a full ballence with the crank pully flywheel and pressure plate. The rods will need to be teflon coated. The driveshaft will need to be replaced with a carbonfiber unit. The transmission will be your weak link you will run into the problems the rotory guys run into, a 13b will rev all day but the trans will not take it. It would be a better idea to stroke the motor and buy Skunk2 stage 2 or 3 cams.




Ballence?
Valvetrane?
teflon coating?
carbonfiber?

I'm not convinced you have a clue what you are writing about.
Old 11-06-2007, 06:03 AM
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Check your assumptions 101: the dude already said he's not trying to make any more power or rev up there intentionally. He just wants to protect against mechanical overrev. All that stuff about the tranny and driveshaft etc. does not come in to play.
Old 11-06-2007, 12:42 PM
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Why would the driveshaft need to be replaced with a CF unit in order to spin 11,000 rpm? That just doesn't make sense. That's like saying I need a CF driveshaft if I want to be able to shift into 6th gear.......at 11,000 RPM in 1st or 2nd gear that shaft is spinning MUCH slower than it is at 5000rpm in 6th......
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