1 Rear Wheel seems more "sunk in" than the other.
#22
Thread Starter
I wish it were that simple alex , but no, there isn't. I'm going to take it to a body shop here and see if they can take a closer look @ it. As ghetto as it sounds, if it's within their tolerances (usually less than or = to 5mm) I may just put a 5mm spacer on that one side to even it up, since that's roughly how much it's off by.
The car drives straight as an arrow, and the alignment dials in perfectly, so I'm not real sure what the deal is. It's simply just slightly too far for it to be a simple subframe shift. That may be contributing to the issue, but that's why I ordered the Spoon Subframe collar kit.
I'll keep you guys posted.
The car drives straight as an arrow, and the alignment dials in perfectly, so I'm not real sure what the deal is. It's simply just slightly too far for it to be a simple subframe shift. That may be contributing to the issue, but that's why I ordered the Spoon Subframe collar kit.
I'll keep you guys posted.
#23
I'd jack up the car and look over it very carefully for any deformation of the chassis or subframe. 5mm is enough that you should see. Also a straight edge along the frame rails if it is a gradual curve.
#25
Thread Starter
Hey everyone
Sorry this thread sorta fell to the wayside. I nearly never like revisiting things like this that cause heartache. I'm the worst perfectionist when it comes to my car, and stuff like this will even keep me awake at night.
Here is the update:
I actually never figured out why my car is this way. I installed a subframe rigid collar kit by Spoon to clean up the "slop" but that only moved things around by maybe 1mm. I took my car to the one body shop I trust (I worked in paint and body for a few years, I only trust one shop near where I live). They put it on the frame machine and measured it all very meticulously and they told me the subframe was all lined up. Overall, I paid them $250 to go over everything underneath the car with a fine tooth comb and make sure nothing was bent, and they found nothing at all.
In the end, as much as I hate this solution, I just put a 5mm spacer on the one side and called it a day. I have had the alignment checked 3x since then, and there has been no uneven tire wear, alignment dials in perfectly, car tracks as straight as an arrow, etc...
To this day I have no flipping idea what causes it. Truthfully, it's probably still off by a hair, and every time I look at it I almost wince out loud, but I have no idea how to pursue any further fix.
If you guys have any further suggestions to look into, I'm all ears. I almost get mad every time I look at it.
Sorry this thread sorta fell to the wayside. I nearly never like revisiting things like this that cause heartache. I'm the worst perfectionist when it comes to my car, and stuff like this will even keep me awake at night.
Here is the update:
I actually never figured out why my car is this way. I installed a subframe rigid collar kit by Spoon to clean up the "slop" but that only moved things around by maybe 1mm. I took my car to the one body shop I trust (I worked in paint and body for a few years, I only trust one shop near where I live). They put it on the frame machine and measured it all very meticulously and they told me the subframe was all lined up. Overall, I paid them $250 to go over everything underneath the car with a fine tooth comb and make sure nothing was bent, and they found nothing at all.
In the end, as much as I hate this solution, I just put a 5mm spacer on the one side and called it a day. I have had the alignment checked 3x since then, and there has been no uneven tire wear, alignment dials in perfectly, car tracks as straight as an arrow, etc...
To this day I have no flipping idea what causes it. Truthfully, it's probably still off by a hair, and every time I look at it I almost wince out loud, but I have no idea how to pursue any further fix.
If you guys have any further suggestions to look into, I'm all ears. I almost get mad every time I look at it.
#27
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Location: San Jose CA
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Im am running into a similar problem. my driverside rear is 5mm or so more "sunken" then my passengerside...many people have suggested that i look at my subframe, and that its not uncommon for subframes to be a little off like that..but after reading your story im not so sure. also I do have more adjustability in my setup because i am using adjustable balljoints. so that could also have been a factor in the stance and its un-eveness.
#28
Take off the rear wheels. measure from outside of the rear top fender to inside point on _frame_. then do same on opposite side, to a similar point, i.e. a bolthole. Then measure from outside of fender point to a point on the bottom of the black subframe, where lower A-arm is mounted. Then compare to the other side. Frame shop probably did it, but they may have been in a hurry.
Loosen up the subframe and move it over those 3/16th of an inch. Tighten it all up to torque specs, and take it for alignment, as it will be off.
Your entire rear suspension is mounted to the subframe. Not the main frame. Just move it over, forget what the the frame shop measured. I know what it feels like when it rubs on the inner bumper cover edge.
Rear quarter panel (rear fender) is ridgidly mounted to the main frame rails. Subframe is bolted, and might have just enough play to allow for that slight shift.
Loosen up the subframe and move it over those 3/16th of an inch. Tighten it all up to torque specs, and take it for alignment, as it will be off.
Your entire rear suspension is mounted to the subframe. Not the main frame. Just move it over, forget what the the frame shop measured. I know what it feels like when it rubs on the inner bumper cover edge.
Rear quarter panel (rear fender) is ridgidly mounted to the main frame rails. Subframe is bolted, and might have just enough play to allow for that slight shift.
#29
i too have have the same problem with driver side. seems like its one degree off, took it to a shop and said the lower control arm was slightly bent. my car drive straight and is aligned, just havent had time or care to spend a chunk of change to change lca, and realign especially when its winter and i have my winter wheels on.
#30
Thread Starter
Take off the rear wheels. measure from outside of the rear top fender to inside point on _frame_. then do same on opposite side, to a similar point, i.e. a bolthole. Then measure from outside of fender point to a point on the bottom of the black subframe, where lower A-arm is mounted. Then compare to the other side. Frame shop probably did it, but they may have been in a hurry.
Loosen up the subframe and move it over those 3/16th of an inch. Tighten it all up to torque specs, and take it for alignment, as it will be off.
Your entire rear suspension is mounted to the subframe. Not the main frame. Just move it over, forget what the the frame shop measured. I know what it feels like when it rubs on the inner bumper cover edge.
Rear quarter panel (rear fender) is ridgidly mounted to the main frame rails. Subframe is bolted, and might have just enough play to allow for that slight shift.
Loosen up the subframe and move it over those 3/16th of an inch. Tighten it all up to torque specs, and take it for alignment, as it will be off.
Your entire rear suspension is mounted to the subframe. Not the main frame. Just move it over, forget what the the frame shop measured. I know what it feels like when it rubs on the inner bumper cover edge.
Rear quarter panel (rear fender) is ridgidly mounted to the main frame rails. Subframe is bolted, and might have just enough play to allow for that slight shift.
I'll keep everyone updated.
Thanks for the suggestion!