0W-20 Mistake
#11
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Foothills East of Sacramento
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This is a pretty good series on oil. I learned a bit when I first read this a few years ago.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
Frankly, based on what I read from the 101 series, I went with Mobil 1 0w-30. I also went with Mobil 1 0w-20 for my other cars that specify 20 weight. Everybody has tons of personal recommendations on oil, it is a personal thing with many, like your favorite ball team or hair color for favorites of the opposite sex. Lots of discussions on what really is a true synthetic versus what they call it in Europe.
Mobil 1 is a high quality oil that does come in the 0w class. It keeps the engine pretty darn clean without varnish deposits. Some folks think F20s, using more oil than F22s, use an inordinate amount of Mobil 1. Who knows? As far as the diff goes, Billman has gone on record saying Mobil1 75w-90 synthetic LS gear oil has had a very good record of use in the S2000.
One other monetary advantage is the price of Mobil 1 at Wal Mart: its is $25 for the 5qt container. I think Castrol Edge is also in a 0w-30 at Wal Mart if I am not mistaken.
#12
Originally Posted by Backmarker' timestamp='1456635361' post='23893155
Nope, I have only used Mobil 1 since I got the car. Wanted to use RP after, but sounds like Mobil 1 0W30 is the recommendation.
This is a pretty good series on oil. I learned a bit when I first read this a few years ago.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
Frankly, based on what I read from the 101 series, I went with Mobil 1 0w-30. I also went with Mobil 1 0w-20 for my other cars that specify 20 weight. Everybody has tons of personal recommendations on oil, it is a personal thing with many, like your favorite ball team or hair color for favorites of the opposite sex. Lots of discussions on what really is a true synthetic versus what they call it in Europe.
Mobil 1 is a high quality oil that does come in the 0w class. It keeps the engine pretty darn clean without varnish deposits. Some folks think F20s, using more oil than F22s, use an inordinate amount of Mobil 1. Who knows? As far as the diff goes, Billman has gone on record saying Mobil1 75w-90 synthetic LS gear oil has had a very good record of use in the S2000.
One other monetary advantage is the price of Mobil 1 at Wal Mart: its is $25 for the 5qt container. I think Castrol Edge is also in a 0w-30 at Wal Mart if I am not mistaken.
Thanks again to everyone for putting my fears to rest.
#13
I think one of the reasons 10w-30 is spec'd for this car is this engine needed 10 weight on startup(of 1999 oil) because the pistons expand in the cylinders more than in newer cars. Forged aluminum pistons tend to expand more than cast pistons, or newer forged alloy pistons. So while the pistons and rings are expanding from heat to their correct size at operating temperature you need the thick oil when the engine is cold and the parts have larger clearances. Granted this is all relative, we're talking about hundred thousandths of an inch.
In any case lubrication has come a long way in the last 5 years, let alone 16, I don't think you're hurting anything with the 0w-20.
In any case lubrication has come a long way in the last 5 years, let alone 16, I don't think you're hurting anything with the 0w-20.
#14
I think one of the reasons 10w-30 is spec'd for this car is this engine needed 10 weight on startup(of 1999 oil) because the pistons expand in the cylinders more than in newer cars. Forged aluminum pistons tend to expand more than cast pistons, or newer forged alloy pistons. So while the pistons and rings are expanding from heat to their correct size at operating temperature you need the thick oil when the engine is cold and the parts have larger clearances. Granted this is all relative, we're talking about hundred thousandths of an inch.
In any case lubrication has come a long way in the last 5 years, let alone 16, I don't think you're hurting anything with the 0w-20.
In any case lubrication has come a long way in the last 5 years, let alone 16, I don't think you're hurting anything with the 0w-20.
Back then Honda always spec'd 10w30 for their higher revving VTEC engines, but they would spec 5w30 for their non-vtec lowering revving variants of the same motors. Back then 5w30 oils were not that consistent, they made 5w30 oils using thinner base stocks and adding Viscosity index improvers (VII's) to thicken up at hot temps. VII's don't have any lubricating value, and as they break down you ended up with a lower quality oil. 10w30 was made using thicker base stocks, giving a bit more protection when VII's broke down.
Honda spec'd 5w40 for cold weather use on the F20 as they knew that you would be getting a full synthetic that flowed quickly , despite the oil having a heavier 40 weight spec. True synthetics weren't plentiful and Honda had to consider what the average consumer might be using from over the counter oils.
It seems that most Honda motorcycles had 40 weights recommended, and they are very high revving.
If Honda introduced the S2000 today it would be interesting to think of what oil they'd be recommending.
#15
I appreciate the reassurance, seriously. I didn't want to do the oil change again, especially with how expensive oil is. I know its not drain your wallet pricy, but two oil changes in 1 day is no fun for the wallet. Haha.
I'll just take it easy to be totally safe. Moving at the end of April so its not exactly a long time to hold back.
I'll just take it easy to be totally safe. Moving at the end of April so its not exactly a long time to hold back.
#16
Registered User
I would shorten the interval between the oil change, if you normally go 3k between changes I would probably readjust it to 2000 miles instead. Also, watch for any unusual consumption using the lighter weight oil. Other than that your fine, especially in Colorado in the early spring.
#17
Join Date: Nov 2007
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Originally Posted by Slowcrash_101' timestamp='1456688156' post='23893593
I think one of the reasons 10w-30 is spec'd for this car is this engine needed 10 weight on startup(of 1999 oil) because the pistons expand in the cylinders more than in newer cars. Forged aluminum pistons tend to expand more than cast pistons, or newer forged alloy pistons. So while the pistons and rings are expanding from heat to their correct size at operating temperature you need the thick oil when the engine is cold and the parts have larger clearances. Granted this is all relative, we're talking about hundred thousandths of an inch.
In any case lubrication has come a long way in the last 5 years, let alone 16, I don't think you're hurting anything with the 0w-20.
In any case lubrication has come a long way in the last 5 years, let alone 16, I don't think you're hurting anything with the 0w-20.
Back then Honda always spec'd 10w30 for their higher revving VTEC engines, but they would spec 5w30 for their non-vtec lowering revving variants of the same motors. Back then 5w30 oils were not that consistent, they made 5w30 oils using thinner base stocks and adding Viscosity index improvers (VII's) to thicken up at hot temps. VII's don't have any lubricating value, and as they break down you ended up with a lower quality oil. 10w30 was made using thicker base stocks, giving a bit more protection when VII's broke down.
Honda spec'd 5w40 for cold weather use on the F20 as they knew that you would be getting a full synthetic that flowed quickly , despite the oil having a heavier 40 weight spec. True synthetics weren't plentiful and Honda had to consider what the average consumer might be using from over the counter oils.
It seems that most Honda motorcycles had 40 weights recommended, and they are very high revving.
If Honda introduced the S2000 today it would be interesting to think of what oil they'd be recommending.
Honda recommended 5W30 for all B/D series engines as far back as 1988 (or further back). IIRC, my old B series cap used to say 5W30 recommended on it.
0W20 probably won't do any damage for short period of use for normal street driving. OP might notice more engine noise or roughness.
Honda likely recommended 10W30 for the S2000 for quite a few reasons:
-They didn't specify synthetic. 10W30 conventional oils are more shear stable than 5W30.
-Typical, 5W30 is on the thin edge of the "30" grade scale. Some 0W30's and most 10W30's maintain more viscosity at operating temp than typical 5W30.
I'm sure there were more reasons.
#18
I would shorten the interval between the oil change, if you normally go 3k between changes I would probably readjust it to 2000 miles instead. Also, watch for any unusual consumption using the lighter weight oil. Other than that your fine, especially in Colorado in the early spring.
#19
I would definitely keep the rpms under 4000...just to be safe...as the 0w-20 is about 20% thinner than the 0w-30 around operating temps. May not sound like a lot but it was built for that 30 weight when warm.
#20