S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

01 s2000 misfire

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Old 05-02-2013, 06:30 PM
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Default 01 s2000 misfire

Ok ive been doing some research and ive searched quite a few trust me.

Im having a problem with the s2000 i just purchased its a 2001 s2000 with 126k miles. CEL is on blinks every now and then when idling. I bought spark plugs and oil because everytime i purchase a car you can never be to safe if the previous owner is being truthful or not. Anyways to the problem i took out the old spark plugs and they were bosch spark plugs with NO TIP. Im guessing something is definatley wrong with the vehicle. As soon as i put in the new ones (ngk iridium laser) as i rev'd the engine to about 4 rpms let go of the gas there was only 1 little bitty bar on the RPM gauge. I figured it was gonna die but no... So this is when the research kicks in iI searched google found it can either be (coils, bent valve, head gasket, valve adjustment, ect...) i cant find the exact symptoms my car is having so I cant get a straight answer.
I shut the car off for one whole day because I was installing my BC coilovers that i had before the car purchase and today i tried turning it on but the now that its cold outside the vehicle blows a lot of white smoke with a gassy smell You can hear the exhaust cutting off from misfiring and the vehicle now wont idle at all it will just turn off.
My buddy said it can be coils cuz he had the exact problem but when i bought the car and it was warm there was no smoke. Im thinking about buying some 04-05 coils (searching got me to that conclusion of which year model coils). Now when i press the gas when its cold it doesnt accelerate in nuetral as fast as it should even when pressing the gas all the way down. I have to have the gas pressed to keep the car alive.

I guess im just trying to get some responses of what you all really think it could be.
Im leaning more to the coils replacement so far what do you guys think?
Old 05-02-2013, 06:35 PM
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NGK laser platinums are the plugs you want. Have you pulled the code?
Old 05-02-2013, 06:38 PM
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Yeah i pulled the codes and it showed cylinder 1 and 2 twice. Also came up as secondary air valve or some crap like that. I searched that up and found out it could be a vacuum leak so i searched under the hood and found a small tiny little hose by the valve cover disconnected and so i connected it back in.
Old 05-02-2013, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by I_s2k1
Yeah i pulled the codes and it showed cylinder 1 and 2 twice. Also came up as secondary air valve or some crap like that. I searched that up and found out it could be a vacuum leak so i searched under the hood and found a small tiny little hose by the valve cover disconnected and so i connected it back in.
Cool. Free test for you to check the coils if that is where you are leaning. You can swap 1&2 with 3&4 and see if the codes follow. Or, you can run the motor and pull the coils one at a time. If you pull the coil and idle gets worse then it is probably good. If you pull the coil and the idle stays the same, it might be bad. This was how I finally narrowed down my bad coil.
Old 05-02-2013, 07:06 PM
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How can i test that though if the car wont even stay running at idling though?
I work at advance auto parts im familiar with testing other coil packa but nothing like this one would there be a way of checking with some of our tools maybe?
Old 05-02-2013, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by I_s2k1
How can i test that though if the car wont even stay running at idling though?
I work at advance auto parts im familiar with testing other coil packa but nothing like this one would there be a way of checking with some of our tools maybe?
Not sure... you can try and just swap 1&2 with 3&4 and do what is necessary to keep the car running long enough to see if your code switches with the coils. Other than that, I don't know what other options are available to check these things out.
Old 05-02-2013, 07:19 PM
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Do a compression and leakdown test, If the plugs had no tip then you most likely have cylinder wall damage and will need to rebuild the motor. As far as the vehicle not staying running, it could be IAC valve also known as the idle control valve. First step is to do a Compression test, then a leak down test. Change all of the plugs. When you do the compression test make sure the engine has been run for at least 30 min, pull out the fuel pump fuse, disconnect the injectors, and take all of the spark plugs out for the test, when performing the test do it with the throttle wide open. Post the compression results back here in this thread, we will try to help as much as we can. Is the vehicle still misfiring after changing the plugs?? Have you done the idle relearn procedure??
Old 05-03-2013, 09:01 AM
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Yeah still misfiring after the plugs being changed.
Havnt done the idle relearn procedure but i turned it on today and it its idling where its supposed to now...
Old 05-03-2013, 09:12 AM
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definitely do the compression test
Old 05-03-2013, 09:31 AM
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Ok ill post back here when i do it. It might be a couple days just because my car at the ment is sitting so low and my garage is full with my brothers wrecked car so ill get back on here when i get an update


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