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Nice washers
Information above is not really correct though.
06+ trigger wheel to the right is marked and needs to be installed correctly, 00-05 to the left is symmetrical so can go both ways (I just marked it with a sharpie).
Thanks. Assuming the original trigger wheel that came with my car was reused.. this shouldn't be a problem. I doubt there's any easy way to check.. perhaps put a borescope through the hole for the CKP and roll the engine over by hand?
Yes should be possible to check with borescope or similar.
I doubt it would be an issue there but you never know, might be a damaged tooth or something.
Maybe, go all the way back to basics. You have voltage to all coils? All ground contacts with engine and chassis are tight and clean? Pull the plugs and see if they are wet with gas after a start attempt. Nothing plugging the air path to the intake manifold?
Maybe, go all the way back to basics. You have voltage to all coils? All ground contacts with engine and chassis are tight and clean? Pull the plugs and see if they are wet with gas after a start attempt. Nothing plugging the air path to the intake manifold?
With about 12.7V across the battery, I have 12.6V to each of the coils.
G101 on the back of the cylinder head and tight. I have one ground from the driver's side of the engine block to the frame near the abs unit. That is in place and tight. The third ground runs from the driver's side of the engine block to the subframe. That is also in place and tight. In addition to those three, I temporarily ran 4 gauge grounding straps from the front of the engine (timing cover) to the frame and a second from the battery negative to the frame.
If you got a OBD scan tool hook that up and turn on ignition and check that all sensors seems to be reading correctly.
IAT, ECT, TPS and MAP if all that checks out I think next step would be checking crank and cam signals with a oscilloscope.
Or if you don't got a scope one at least probe all wires from sensors to ecu to make sure there are no damage on the wires.
I for sure have power at the connectors and the coils are all brand new Densos, but I have not checked for power on the coil itself. Spark plugs are also new.
Originally Posted by flanders
If you got a OBD scan tool hook that up and turn on ignition and check that all sensors seems to be reading correctly.
IAT, ECT, TPS and MAP if all that checks out I think next step would be checking crank and cam signals with a oscilloscope.
Or if you don't got a scope one at least probe all wires from sensors to ecu to make sure there are no damage on the wires.
I have a basic scan tool which tells me there are no CELs.
I did find something interesting today. I probed the CKP connector per the service manual:
I have continuity to body ground on the white wire, but not the blue wire. The brown wire also has continuity to ground.
If I reconnect the CKP and move to the ECU connector, I have 2,050 ohms between the white wire and the blue wire.
The next step in the service manual says to check the blue for continuity to ground at the ECU connector:
When I check the blue wire for continuity to ground, I don't have it. I've also checked for continuity through the blue wire (from ECU pin to CKP connector) and there is continuity through the wire.
The service manual says to replace the ECU but I don't necessarily meet the criteria to do so. Technically, my answer to step #5 is "Yes and No." Any ideas on this? I'm horrible with electrical.
10-14-2020, 06:54 PM
