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Cam timing is good , check knock sensor, map sensor , cam sensors again , check if all the grounds are plugged in as well
Thanks, I've double checked everything wiring-wise. Tested the circuits with a multimeter where possible, too.
Update: I replaced the coil packs with (4) new Denso 673-2301s and also put new spark plugs in. Although it seems to start a little bit better, the car still will only start with the crankshaft position sensor unplugged. Even then, it sounds like it is running on 2 cylinders at best. It barely idles.
Can the cam or crankshaft trigger wheels be installed backwards on these cars? I see the camshaft trigger wheels are keyed and mine appear to be in the correct position with cylinder #1 at TDC. I obviously can't see the crankshaft trigger wheel without more effort - just thought I'd ask first.
Do you have another ECU by any chance? I'm just weighing out all options because I had to swap ECU's one time since i had a permanent misfire on cyl #3 untill i reprogrammed a used ecu and swapped it out. Bit extreme but you never know. You don't have to reprogram the ecu if you get a spare ecu and take the immobilizer off just for testing purposes.
You are getting no CEL codes? What model/year S2000 engine do you have? Maybe, the wrong cam timing gear washer?
No CELs whatsoever. I have checked with my cheap scanner and had a friend use his scanner from a Honda dealership check it as well. The body is a 2000, the engine is an F22 with F20C rotating assembly. The car was using the exact same set of parts (except for the camshaft position sensors, which I replaced) as when it was running and spun a rod bearing prior to all this.
Do you have another ECU by any chance? I'm just weighing out all options because I had to swap ECU's one time since i had a permanent misfire on cyl #3 untill i reprogrammed a used ecu and swapped it out. Bit extreme but you never know. You don't have to reprogram the ecu if you get a spare ecu and take the immobilizer off just for testing purposes.
So, the car has done the same thing on two different ECUs. The first is a J's Racing ECU (which the car was originally running on and, I believe, has the immobilizer disabled) and the second is the OEM AP1 ECU that came with the car. When I use the OEM ECU, the immobilizer works great - green key comes up and goes off as it should.
The only other thing that I can think of is the gas is pretty old. The car spun a bearing in January and the gas has been in there ever since. I have tried spraying some starter fluid into the TB but the same issue occurs and I'm not sure how much of the starting fluid makes its way down to the cylinder since I have to spray it in there and then crank the car over.
Last edited by mt.nichols; 10-14-2020 at 06:53 AM.
No CELs whatsoever. I have checked with my cheap scanner and had a friend use his scanner from a Honda dealership check it as well. The body is a 2000, the engine is an F22 with F20C rotating assembly. The car was using the exact same set of parts (except for the camshaft position sensors, which I replaced) as when it was running and spun a rod bearing prior to all this.
Nice washers
Information above is not really correct though.
06+ trigger wheel to the right is marked and needs to be installed correctly, 00-05 to the left is symmetrical so can go both ways (I just marked it with a sharpie).
Nice washers
Information above is not really correct though.
06+ trigger wheel to the right is marked and needs to be installed correctly, 00-05 to the left is symmetrical so can go both ways (I just marked it with a sharpie).
Thanks. Assuming the original trigger wheel that came with my car was reused.. this shouldn't be a problem. I doubt there's any easy way to check.. perhaps put a borescope through the hole for the CKP and roll the engine over by hand?
Nice washers
Information above is not really correct though.
06+ trigger wheel to the right is marked and needs to be installed correctly, 00-05 to the left is symmetrical so can go both ways (I just marked it with a sharpie).
10-13-2020, 03:52 PM
