X-Brace
04-23-2006 | 06:09 AM
#15
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 160
Likes: 1
From: South Florida
Here's another vote for the Muz/whiteline. On a rough surface it will reduce scuttle, but the main benefit (IMO) is oil pan protection - my first track event I spun into the infield and afterwards checked underneath. The brace was scuffed up rather than my pan 
. It paid for itself right there.
. It paid for itself right there.
04-23-2006 | 06:13 AM
#16
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,829
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Originally Posted by WyattH,Apr 22 2006, 11:25 PM
Doesn't the Spoon interfere with oil changes?
The oil drain bolt is a PITA to get at, and once removed it drips all over the top side of the brace. Some brake clean, and a rag are what I use to make sure it doesn't sit there and drip.
04-23-2006 | 06:59 AM
#19
Registered User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,543
Likes: 0
From: Vegas baby!!
I have the Muz x-brace and where I notice the improvement best is on bumpy roads, particularly in turns. so I am happy. 
it does nothing for you on flat roads, so it's a waste of $ IMO if you live in TX, FL or the like.
that said, all x-braces* are overbuilt to be extra strong and reduce chassis flex. IMO the cheapest one is just as good as the most expensive one. I have NEVER ever heard of an x-brace breaking... or even bending out of shape... (unless it takes an impact of course, which makes it a worthwhile sacrifice to save one's oil pan)
* when I say x-braces, I mean true x-designs and the Muz one-- I haven't used the Cusco U-shape, but I can't imagine it'd work as well as the x-designs or the Muz.
think about it: the Spoon, the Neuspeed, the Rick's/digrappa, the Muz... at their 4-points of contact with the car-- where they do their work-- their job is to minimize the dynamic movement of those 4 points in space. they do this by being essentially stiff chunks of metal (with some geometric aspects thrown in). IMO, whether one may allow .001" more movement cannot be known and really would never be noticable-- they all do the same job within 99.99% of each other. so get the cheapest one. heck, get a used one since it's not like they ever wear out. just make sure the bolts are new or in excellent shape...
which brings up an important reminder-- you absolutely, positively DO NOT want to strip the teeth where these bolts go in to the frame. make sure they are perfectly straight and go in smoothly. if you ruin the threading in those holes, you are screwed bigtime.
it does nothing for you on flat roads, so it's a waste of $ IMO if you live in TX, FL or the like.that said, all x-braces* are overbuilt to be extra strong and reduce chassis flex. IMO the cheapest one is just as good as the most expensive one. I have NEVER ever heard of an x-brace breaking... or even bending out of shape... (unless it takes an impact of course, which makes it a worthwhile sacrifice to save one's oil pan)
* when I say x-braces, I mean true x-designs and the Muz one-- I haven't used the Cusco U-shape, but I can't imagine it'd work as well as the x-designs or the Muz.
think about it: the Spoon, the Neuspeed, the Rick's/digrappa, the Muz... at their 4-points of contact with the car-- where they do their work-- their job is to minimize the dynamic movement of those 4 points in space. they do this by being essentially stiff chunks of metal (with some geometric aspects thrown in). IMO, whether one may allow .001" more movement cannot be known and really would never be noticable-- they all do the same job within 99.99% of each other. so get the cheapest one. heck, get a used one since it's not like they ever wear out. just make sure the bolts are new or in excellent shape...
which brings up an important reminder-- you absolutely, positively DO NOT want to strip the teeth where these bolts go in to the frame. make sure they are perfectly straight and go in smoothly. if you ruin the threading in those holes, you are screwed bigtime.