Would you jump on this deal?
#1
Would you jump on this deal?
Found a used f20c listed on craigslist for 1000 dollars and planning to resell it on eBay for a little profit.
The engine will come intact from the oil pan to valve cover, and include all belt driven accessories. Compression test is 195 on cylinder 1, 205-210 on cylinder 2, 3, and 4. Engine is a f20c with 131,000 miles.
What would you offer for the engine and what do you think is it's expected resell?
The engine will come intact from the oil pan to valve cover, and include all belt driven accessories. Compression test is 195 on cylinder 1, 205-210 on cylinder 2, 3, and 4. Engine is a f20c with 131,000 miles.
What would you offer for the engine and what do you think is it's expected resell?
#2
I would offer 900 dollars and pull the head, re-ring/clean the pistons, and make sure all the oil squirters are up to date.
Thats cheap insurance. Also, replace the chain, guides, tensioner, and use ARP head bolts. Your good to go for another 150,000
while also ensuring a nice non smoking ap1 motor as long as you follow break in. All in all maybe 1200 bucks but totally worth it.
It will be like having a new motor.
P.s.
check crank bearing clearances and cam play.
For that service most machine shops may charge a
100 bucks or so and you can also balance your crank if you want too.
New, crank bearings are super cheap so for peace of mind I would get tolerances
to really tight levels.
Thats cheap insurance. Also, replace the chain, guides, tensioner, and use ARP head bolts. Your good to go for another 150,000
while also ensuring a nice non smoking ap1 motor as long as you follow break in. All in all maybe 1200 bucks but totally worth it.
It will be like having a new motor.
P.s.
check crank bearing clearances and cam play.
For that service most machine shops may charge a
100 bucks or so and you can also balance your crank if you want too.
New, crank bearings are super cheap so for peace of mind I would get tolerances
to really tight levels.
#3
What is it worth? There's no way to tell because you have no idea if
it's been beaten beyond a compression test. If you could do a leak down or a myriad of other
tests it's a shot in the dark. Doing what I said will alleviate 90 percent of your worries but if you
are just trying to make a buck than no. No ones gonna buy a motor simply based on compression test.
AP1 motors are going to become much more rare as the years go by for obvious reasons. I personally
have an extra block and full head completely stock I will build. I believe the AP1 motors are
going to be treasured much in the way that a Toyota 4AG-E has been. So as years go by i've been time
collecting cams and heads and blocks. I'd like to have at least 3 or 4 full AP1 motors and have spent
as little as 3,000 dollars. FRM is really strong, I mean really really strong. You just need new rings,
Oil squirters, and a valve test to make sure things are all good upstairs. Beyond that the AP1
motor is STRONG. The database for s2000's 1999 to 2003 is actually much smaller than
the AP2. Meaning a lot of AP1's were destroyed, and there simply aren't as many as the AP2
here in the states. My guess is that a little over 14,000 AP1's exist today if that. At least by salvage recovery
and insurance statistics. The AP2 numbers are much higher and the 2.2 represents closer to 41,000 cars
including thefts and salvages. Either way, you should evaluate what you can about the motor based on the car
if the seller is giving out that info. However, if I had nothing to go off of except those numbers i'd probably
get it for 900. These motors are becoming increasingly expensive to get. Also, the 2.2 does not have the same content FRM
as the AP1 measured in microns. So, pay the 900 and spend another 300 and I think thats a pretty good deal.
10 years from now you'll be kicking yourself if you didn't and wanted an original F20C.
it's been beaten beyond a compression test. If you could do a leak down or a myriad of other
tests it's a shot in the dark. Doing what I said will alleviate 90 percent of your worries but if you
are just trying to make a buck than no. No ones gonna buy a motor simply based on compression test.
AP1 motors are going to become much more rare as the years go by for obvious reasons. I personally
have an extra block and full head completely stock I will build. I believe the AP1 motors are
going to be treasured much in the way that a Toyota 4AG-E has been. So as years go by i've been time
collecting cams and heads and blocks. I'd like to have at least 3 or 4 full AP1 motors and have spent
as little as 3,000 dollars. FRM is really strong, I mean really really strong. You just need new rings,
Oil squirters, and a valve test to make sure things are all good upstairs. Beyond that the AP1
motor is STRONG. The database for s2000's 1999 to 2003 is actually much smaller than
the AP2. Meaning a lot of AP1's were destroyed, and there simply aren't as many as the AP2
here in the states. My guess is that a little over 14,000 AP1's exist today if that. At least by salvage recovery
and insurance statistics. The AP2 numbers are much higher and the 2.2 represents closer to 41,000 cars
including thefts and salvages. Either way, you should evaluate what you can about the motor based on the car
if the seller is giving out that info. However, if I had nothing to go off of except those numbers i'd probably
get it for 900. These motors are becoming increasingly expensive to get. Also, the 2.2 does not have the same content FRM
as the AP1 measured in microns. So, pay the 900 and spend another 300 and I think thats a pretty good deal.
10 years from now you'll be kicking yourself if you didn't and wanted an original F20C.
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