when should i do an oil change??
08-12-2003, 09:11 AM
#12
I really think the "break-in" oil thing is a bunch of hooey! If it is that important, why don't the dealers have it available for topping off and for early oil changes??? No reasonable answer has ever been given to this question.
I know of no reason not to change the oil at or around 3,000 miles with Castrol GTX. By reason, I mean something more than "You need to keep the special break-in oil in there." Tell me what addatives it has that the Castrol does not.
I know of no reason not to change the oil at or around 3,000 miles with Castrol GTX. By reason, I mean something more than "You need to keep the special break-in oil in there." Tell me what addatives it has that the Castrol does not.
08-12-2003, 09:20 AM
#13
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The break-in oil I know about is usually thinner oil and has a low amount of moly in it, if any at all. All in all, think of it as a previous generation or two of oil.
08-12-2003, 09:59 AM
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If moly was so important, Honda would be using something other then Mobil, which is usually around the middle of moly content. If you move up the weight scale, like Mobil15w50, it has very, very little moly in it and is not an energy conservation oil. The break-in oil is probably nothing more then a SF or SG rated oil, which is not an EC oil. Good luck finding a 10w30 like that now though.
Do you know what moly is?
Do you know what moly is?
08-12-2003, 01:17 PM
#16
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Amen to this bogus moly mantra!
Moly is just one of a number of anti-wear (AW) compounds, and not generally considered the best. ZDP is.
Castrol has relatively low AW levels - Mobil1 has moderate, and Redline and Amsoil have high. You get what you pay for.
Honda must be the only company using break-in oil. Actually, I am not sure I believe it.
Why? For one thing, I have been to 5 plant tours, and have never seen special oil added to any of them. This included M-B and BMW. The other reason is that I believe they say it is special because they want the factory oil in there for a while to ensure ring/cylinder alignment, and also to ensure that no el cheapo oil is put in there during the critical first 500 miles. Using the break-in oil scare tactic appears to be effective. I do not believe high moly is the end all here.
I took a tour of Acura's Ohio plant where they were building TL's, and saw no special break-in oil, though the dealer said it had special oil.
I remain a skeptic. If someone sends me a sample of their break-in oil I will have it analyzed. When my 2004 gets here, that's what I plan to do.
Moly is just one of a number of anti-wear (AW) compounds, and not generally considered the best. ZDP is.
Castrol has relatively low AW levels - Mobil1 has moderate, and Redline and Amsoil have high. You get what you pay for.
Honda must be the only company using break-in oil. Actually, I am not sure I believe it.
Why? For one thing, I have been to 5 plant tours, and have never seen special oil added to any of them. This included M-B and BMW. The other reason is that I believe they say it is special because they want the factory oil in there for a while to ensure ring/cylinder alignment, and also to ensure that no el cheapo oil is put in there during the critical first 500 miles. Using the break-in oil scare tactic appears to be effective. I do not believe high moly is the end all here.
I took a tour of Acura's Ohio plant where they were building TL's, and saw no special break-in oil, though the dealer said it had special oil.
I remain a skeptic. If someone sends me a sample of their break-in oil I will have it analyzed. When my 2004 gets here, that's what I plan to do.
08-12-2003, 01:19 PM
#17
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by lanbrown
[B]If moly was so important, Honda would be using something other then Mobil, which is usually around the middle of moly content.
[B]If moly was so important, Honda would be using something other then Mobil, which is usually around the middle of moly content.
08-12-2003, 01:29 PM
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It is used as a lubricant to reduces friction. Moly has a co-efficient of friction of .03 to .06. More moly means the less friction and thus, less wear. The whole point of a break-in period is to get parts to seat together. If you think reducing friction to accomplish this is a good thing, might as well as use synthetic, which does an even better job at it.
08-12-2003, 03:12 PM
#19
Originally posted by Road Rage
Amen to this bogus moly mantra!
I remain a skeptic. If someone sends me a sample of their break-in oil I will have it analyzed. When my 2004 gets here, that's what I plan to do.
Amen to this bogus moly mantra!
I remain a skeptic. If someone sends me a sample of their break-in oil I will have it analyzed. When my 2004 gets here, that's what I plan to do.
If it's works for you to believe it, then carry on.
If I were to do it all over again, I think I'd dump that shit @1000 miles.
08-12-2003, 03:34 PM
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Originally posted by Jason B
Severe conditions are stated in your manual. I think everyone should read it over. It probably doesn't effect most of us unless you drive like a bat outta hell everyday (9,000 rpm) in 110 degree heat. That's mainly for Canadaian owners. They are recommended to follow the severe conditions portion due to colder temps, dusty/de-iced roads, etc.
Severe conditions are stated in your manual. I think everyone should read it over. It probably doesn't effect most of us unless you drive like a bat outta hell everyday (9,000 rpm) in 110 degree heat. That's mainly for Canadaian owners. They are recommended to follow the severe conditions portion due to colder temps, dusty/de-iced roads, etc.
Use this schedule if the vehicle is driven mainly in any of these severe conditions:
Less than 5 miles per trip or, in freezing temperatures, less than 10 miles per trip.
In extremely hot weather (over 90 deg F)
Extensive idling or long periods of stop-and-go driving.
Driving in mountainous conditions.
On muddy, dusty, or de-iced roads.
That actually applies to many folks with a short commute, or folks in AZ, the central valley, s FL, and everyone on the western slope...