Cold starts are demanding but the battery can be recharged. Hot conditions speed the normal chemical deterioration of lead acid batteries so they die sooner.

 

The problem you are talking about only applies to certain types of rechargeable batteries (mainly Ni-Cad). Most rechargeable batteries should be fully discharged before being fully charged, or their performance will deteriorate. A lead-acid battery has the opposite characteristic. A lead-acid battery should never be discharged.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by gernby
[B]


The problem you are talking about only applies to certain types of rechargeable batteries (mainly Ni-Cad).

 

If a lead acid battery is discharged all the way, an action called sulfation happens which essentially means you can't recharge it anymore. Lead acid batteries should always be stored in a charged state.

Also, a big reason why lead acid batteries die is corrosion on the positive plates. High heat speeds up the chemical reaction, which is why batteries in hot climates, like 100+ Dallas, don't last as long.

Interestingly enough, it turns out that if a lead acid batter is never fully charged, it's capacity diminishes (although I do not know the chemical reason behind this) which I assume is why battery tenders help.

NiCd and NiMH batteries are different because when you charge and already partially charged battery, tiny crystals within the batter start merging and growing. This gives a smaller surface area for the amount of chemical within the battery, which reduces it's ability to hold charge. Some other chemical changes occur which can cause increased internal resistance, too. Crystals can form on both negative and positive plates of a NiCd batter, but only on the positive nickle plate of the NiMH, which is why it's less prone to the memory effect. Sometimes, but not always, a deep discharge can break up the crystals and restore most of the battery's capacity.

More reading:
http://www.cadex.com/gen_arch.asp
http://www.iserv.net/~alexx/lib/componet.htm

 

If a lead acid battery is never fully charged, it begins to sulfate, and that is what kills it. All lead acid batteries have space under the plates to catch some of the sulfate if it falls off or vibrates loose. If too much accumulates, it will short the cells, and you have a dead battery. Also cheaper batteries are not well designed to protect the plates from vibration. Look at a miltary battery to see the difference. A Battery Tender will keep the charge up, but will not stop or reverse sulfation. For that, you need to look to Solargizer. We're talking about a two way chemical reaction here, and fortunately we have the tools to help the longevity issue. I agree with xviper about the computer issue. Most computers do wierd things at or below 10 volts, and not all of the damage is reversible. See my previous post about my motorcycle battery life. I had only ridden the bike twice in the 10 year period, but with the addition of water about twice a year, the battery stayed like new. We desulfate our industrial batteries twice a year, as we can be down 5 months due to weather. It's a really nice feeling to crank a diesel that has been idle for that long and have it roar to life like it had just been used. Check out the web for Solargizer and you can gain a wealth of information about sulfation. The US miltary has these units on most of their equipment, saving the batteries and our tax dollars. (At least until we launch the big one in Iraq.)

 

I guess I'll be replacing mine next month.

I have also noticed that the car doesn't start as easy as before. In fact, my Passport 8500 has a voltmeter that sounds an alarm warning me of low voltage everytime I start my car. The end must be near.

 

My battery has been "iffy" for the last six months. I have had it tested twice with a sophisticated tester at the Honda dealer and it always tests "okay." My car was built in August, 2000 and was "new" 4 November 2000.

Now I just slip a charger on it if I'm going more than a week and charge it up.

I've got the Honda alarm and an aftermarket radio, both of which draw even when "off." I don't drive my car as a daily driver. I wonder how much these things contribute.

My suspicion is that the OEM battery is just borderline to begin with. I'm also interested in the best choice for a replacement without going overboard into sophistication and price.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Barry WY Silver/Black '01
[B]My battery has been "iffy" for the last six months.

 

I did a search on battery life and this is one of the threads that came up. I found it helpful. If anyone has current info on good battery replacements, I am interested.

Recently I thought I noticed my car turning over a little slower than usual and I suspected the battery. I have never replaced it or had any maintenance done to it. I bought the car with 4000 miles on it in January of 2004 from a non-honda dealership. I have just been out checking the current battery and it is a Panasonic, with Honda readings on it also. I can't find any indication on the nuts or brackets that suggest previous change out. Is it possible that the original stock battery has lasted this long? It's still going problem free at the moment.

 

6 years and still on my original battery