What kind of oil do you guys use on your S2K
#131
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lol well, let me put it this way ... i was looking under the back tires and making sure i could, in fact, change my differential fluid last weekend. i could. just needed an angle ... so i thought ... hey!! i can park the back tires on the inclined curb right there. *points*
sooo ... walk away from the car, get the keys, come back, begin to move the car, and POP!!! just ran over the bottle of fluid. had 75w90 all over the front right side. no damage other than to my ego.
let's hope that convinces you to do an oil change. what i used ... k & n oil filter (HP-1004) and mobil 10w30 dino oil (5.1 quarts). i plan to switch to amsoil 10w30 when i get to 10 or 12k miles after i break in the motor. might stick with the k & n filter or switch to honda's new filter, depending on how things go.
i also got a spoon magnetic plug for the oil. it's 17 mm plug, and hte filter can come off with an oil filter wrench thing. just try to keep oil off the engine. better yet, go to this link and print it out and have it beside you so you know you do it right:
http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.p...?threadid=70348
now, enough of everyone reading of my horrible, uneducated post about cars. just trying to help out someone who knows as little as i do about cars. but i'm working on it.
sooo ... walk away from the car, get the keys, come back, begin to move the car, and POP!!! just ran over the bottle of fluid. had 75w90 all over the front right side. no damage other than to my ego.
let's hope that convinces you to do an oil change. what i used ... k & n oil filter (HP-1004) and mobil 10w30 dino oil (5.1 quarts). i plan to switch to amsoil 10w30 when i get to 10 or 12k miles after i break in the motor. might stick with the k & n filter or switch to honda's new filter, depending on how things go.
i also got a spoon magnetic plug for the oil. it's 17 mm plug, and hte filter can come off with an oil filter wrench thing. just try to keep oil off the engine. better yet, go to this link and print it out and have it beside you so you know you do it right:
http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.p...?threadid=70348
now, enough of everyone reading of my horrible, uneducated post about cars. just trying to help out someone who knows as little as i do about cars. but i'm working on it.
#132
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Road Rage
Bill:
The answer to both questions is yes.
1) Amsoil used to be di-ester based, and now uses a less costly PAO base. But their additive package has improved, and the product has improved to the level that it is a top tier oil in my estimation. The company has had some shady practices according to my industry insiders, but they seem to have straightened out. I cannot understand how they stick with a 25,000 change interval (with filter change at 12.5k and 1 quart of make-up oil) even though they have gone to PAOs (polyalphaolefins). On the other hand, many of the synoil companies that did use PAO's have gone to cheaper Group III bases as a result of the Castrol lawsuit. Still, the additives count for a lot, although the Mobil1 additive package is so-so, and not designed for extended drain intervals. Amsoil and Red Line are, as they have much higher TBN figures.
Bill:
The answer to both questions is yes.
1) Amsoil used to be di-ester based, and now uses a less costly PAO base. But their additive package has improved, and the product has improved to the level that it is a top tier oil in my estimation. The company has had some shady practices according to my industry insiders, but they seem to have straightened out. I cannot understand how they stick with a 25,000 change interval (with filter change at 12.5k and 1 quart of make-up oil) even though they have gone to PAOs (polyalphaolefins). On the other hand, many of the synoil companies that did use PAO's have gone to cheaper Group III bases as a result of the Castrol lawsuit. Still, the additives count for a lot, although the Mobil1 additive package is so-so, and not designed for extended drain intervals. Amsoil and Red Line are, as they have much higher TBN figures.
#133
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Thanks Wortham and OC S2K, I will have to get started right away! What about the tranny fluid, how often does that stuff get changed? Also, It sounds like I should change my oil and filter every 3k miles, is this necessary with RedLine 10W30 and OEM filters? Thanks
#135
Originally posted by panic What about the tranny fluid, how often does that stuff get changed?
#136
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just came from Mobil1's website..
after reading through all their legal mumbo jumbo, it LOOKS like they use PAO as a base for their SuperSyn oil..
[QUOTE]To meet the demanding requirements of today's specifications (and our customers' expectations), Mobil 1
after reading through all their legal mumbo jumbo, it LOOKS like they use PAO as a base for their SuperSyn oil..
Conventional oils come from crude oil that is pumped from the ground. Crude oil is made up of a twisted and jumbled mass of carbon atoms that form chains and rings of different sizes and shapes. Long chains of carbon atoms produce a thick viscous fluid that flows slowly. Shorter chains produce fluid that flows more readily.
In an oil refinery, crude oil is separated into various stocks. These become the basis for lubricating oils and fuels. Thick tangled masses of carbon chains become asphaltic materials used in roofing tar and road work. Very short chains and ring compounds of carbon are volatile and can be refined to produce gasoline and other solvents.
While petroleum refining is an advanced science, small amounts of contaminants, such as sulfur, reactive hydrocarbons and other materials cannot be completely removed from petroleum, and may end up in motor oil base stocks.
All motor oils are made up of base oils and additives. In general, fully synthetic motor oils contain non-conventional, high-performance fluids, such as polyalphaolefins (PAOs). Semi-synthetic oils (also called "blends") usually use a small percentage of non-conventional, high-performance fluids in combination with conventional oil.