Volk TE37s
#2
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BTW, i remember the fronts being 17x7.5, but are the rears 17x8.5? What was the offset again?
[This message has been edited by mingster (edited December 09, 2000).]
[This message has been edited by mingster (edited December 09, 2000).]
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Re: TE37
Front 17x7.5 Offset +48
Rear 17x8.5 Offset+50
I've been looking ages to source these, including importing from US. I came across this site www.wholesalewheel.com for a pretty good price but the current exchange rate between Aus$ and US$ - a bit steep.
Front 17x7.5 Offset +48
Rear 17x8.5 Offset+50
I've been looking ages to source these, including importing from US. I came across this site www.wholesalewheel.com for a pretty good price but the current exchange rate between Aus$ and US$ - a bit steep.
#4
I used to live in Walnut, CA about an hour east of west la, there are a TON of car fix up shops out there: robocar, spark, mac car, autohaus, etc. i used to shop around a lot for part for my old civic, and since competition in this market is near perfect in that area, you can always find an awesome price. Your best bet is a place called Autohaus, they will match any price, literally. I got quoted by them for a set of 18x8.5 18x9.5 white volke te's for about $2500. and that was just over the phone, no bargaining even.
#6
Can you have the 16x8 46 offset and 16x7 42 offset TE37s, machined to come close to the required offset? Is there enough material there to do the machining and keep the wheel safe for racing purposes?
#7
$2k delivered for 17" gunmetal TE37's...
I got them at www.wheelwarehouse.com
Ziggy was the salesguy... he seemed pretty cool.
Scot
I got them at www.wheelwarehouse.com
Ziggy was the salesguy... he seemed pretty cool.
Scot
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Originally posted by BBSpoon:
Can you have the 16x8 46 offset and 16x7 42 offset TE37s, machined to come close to the required offset? Is there enough material there to do the machining and keep the wheel safe for racing purposes?
Can you have the 16x8 46 offset and 16x7 42 offset TE37s, machined to come close to the required offset? Is there enough material there to do the machining and keep the wheel safe for racing purposes?
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I talked with a shop about machining wheels back when I was still looking for wheels for my car.
I really wanted the TE37s myself, but they just werent built for the S2000. Anyway, I wanted to get something at least 9.5+'' wide in the rear and obviously volk does not have a wheel in that size with the proper S2000 offset. So I asked a reputable shop if I could machine down the offset to something different. The answer was no. They said that once the lug pattern has been drilled into the wheel, there is nothing that can be done. You'd need rims that are not drilled for lugs yet (not something you can get from Volk). This is yet another reason why I started my project with HRE and built custom size wheels. The sad truth is generic size wheels dont fit our car properly. I just couldnt see spending $2000 on rims when they are nearly the same width as factory wheels.
Ben
I really wanted the TE37s myself, but they just werent built for the S2000. Anyway, I wanted to get something at least 9.5+'' wide in the rear and obviously volk does not have a wheel in that size with the proper S2000 offset. So I asked a reputable shop if I could machine down the offset to something different. The answer was no. They said that once the lug pattern has been drilled into the wheel, there is nothing that can be done. You'd need rims that are not drilled for lugs yet (not something you can get from Volk). This is yet another reason why I started my project with HRE and built custom size wheels. The sad truth is generic size wheels dont fit our car properly. I just couldnt see spending $2000 on rims when they are nearly the same width as factory wheels.
Ben
#10
That's a downer... Thanks for sharing the info.
Anyway, the reasoning behind staying with the Volks is weight. It's the performance, inertia thing. The Volks are around 11 lbs. and the stocks are 16 lbs. Basing it on the recent SCC magazine article that's equal to 250 lbs. of sprung weight, that'll make the S2k a 2500 lbs car... nnaaaahhh. The 16x7 and 16x8 sizes, will go nicely with 205/55 and 245/45 rubber.
After reading your post on the HREs, I check them out and the 535s seem to fit the bill, but its the weight thing again. I called them and they said that the 16s are around 16-17 lbs. same as stock. Gorgeous wheels though.
I looked at the Mugen MF10s... yuck. But, after learning how good they're made, how light, OK offsets they kinda looked better. Its that "form follows function" thing of mine. Anyway, Mugen also makes a 16x7, 5x114.3, 50mm offset for the ITR. Its $100.00 less than the 17x7.5 52mm offset for the S2k. I figure use 16x7 in the front and 17x8.5 rear. This will tie in with 225/50-16 and 255/40-17 rubber. This should maintain the balance of the car, plus better braking. I'll probably go with this since I can't go the machining route. Probably, it will grow on me... yuck.
The JDM BBSs for the S2K is another option. All I know is that they forged, so they must be lighter. They're 16 inch rims (inertia thing again). They're a half inch wider than stock and they must have the right offsets.
Just thought I'd share my ideas with you guys... What do you think?
Anyway, the reasoning behind staying with the Volks is weight. It's the performance, inertia thing. The Volks are around 11 lbs. and the stocks are 16 lbs. Basing it on the recent SCC magazine article that's equal to 250 lbs. of sprung weight, that'll make the S2k a 2500 lbs car... nnaaaahhh. The 16x7 and 16x8 sizes, will go nicely with 205/55 and 245/45 rubber.
After reading your post on the HREs, I check them out and the 535s seem to fit the bill, but its the weight thing again. I called them and they said that the 16s are around 16-17 lbs. same as stock. Gorgeous wheels though.
I looked at the Mugen MF10s... yuck. But, after learning how good they're made, how light, OK offsets they kinda looked better. Its that "form follows function" thing of mine. Anyway, Mugen also makes a 16x7, 5x114.3, 50mm offset for the ITR. Its $100.00 less than the 17x7.5 52mm offset for the S2k. I figure use 16x7 in the front and 17x8.5 rear. This will tie in with 225/50-16 and 255/40-17 rubber. This should maintain the balance of the car, plus better braking. I'll probably go with this since I can't go the machining route. Probably, it will grow on me... yuck.
The JDM BBSs for the S2K is another option. All I know is that they forged, so they must be lighter. They're 16 inch rims (inertia thing again). They're a half inch wider than stock and they must have the right offsets.
Just thought I'd share my ideas with you guys... What do you think?