Vented hood vs. a "cold-air" hood
#11
Originally posted by The Reverend
In response to AusS2000, 1+2=Swiss Cheese, Klingon-looking batmobile hood.
In response to AusS2000, 1+2=Swiss Cheese, Klingon-looking batmobile hood.
#12
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this is off the specific topic, but is related to the issue at hand.
This may be simplistic and is certainly coming from a position of ignorance, but would removing the plastic cover over the intake opening (which is not an opening because it's covered) on the airbox side provide some additional benefit? Would this flow even get up to the airbox as ambient or at least mix with the flow coming by the radiator without being directed?
Why are these openings covered? Did Honda just put them there to look cool, or did they originally intend them to provide airflow and then found rocks and debris were a problem?
I'm looking for anything simple/easy to do at this point, as I'm not ready to commit to something like a new hood. If I'm going to spend money, I'm gonna save for an intercooler.
This may be simplistic and is certainly coming from a position of ignorance, but would removing the plastic cover over the intake opening (which is not an opening because it's covered) on the airbox side provide some additional benefit? Would this flow even get up to the airbox as ambient or at least mix with the flow coming by the radiator without being directed?
Why are these openings covered? Did Honda just put them there to look cool, or did they originally intend them to provide airflow and then found rocks and debris were a problem?
I'm looking for anything simple/easy to do at this point, as I'm not ready to commit to something like a new hood. If I'm going to spend money, I'm gonna save for an intercooler.
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there has been many albeit unscientific tests that show that with the cover off, the performance is noticable worse than with the top on... all tests being done within a short period of time.
I am sure the box is tuned and the top is part of this tuning as well as insulating engine bay heat.
-Shing
I am sure the box is tuned and the top is part of this tuning as well as insulating engine bay heat.
-Shing
#15
With regards to the faux air ducts, there are a couple of options here. Some people have used them for brake cooling by cutting them out and running aviation tubing to the back of the disk shields.
Shaner and one other that I know of have used them for intake but neither have reported any gains. Shaners feed into his supercharger and if I'm not mistaken actually appeared to decrease performance. I guess this is due to the long lengths of piping. The other example (can't remember the name) ran tubing to holes cut into the bottom of the stock air box. This person also reported no performance gains.
Shaner and one other that I know of have used them for intake but neither have reported any gains. Shaners feed into his supercharger and if I'm not mistaken actually appeared to decrease performance. I guess this is due to the long lengths of piping. The other example (can't remember the name) ran tubing to holes cut into the bottom of the stock air box. This person also reported no performance gains.
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I know about using the ducts for brake cooling. I don't track the car, so I don't need that.
Also, I'm not really looking for performance gains, per se, only to mitigate the effects (if possible) of high ambient temps in the summertime. Thanks for posting, though, I will PM Shaner.
Also, I'm not really looking for performance gains, per se, only to mitigate the effects (if possible) of high ambient temps in the summertime. Thanks for posting, though, I will PM Shaner.
#17
Originally posted by AusS2000
The other example (can't remember the name) ran tubing to holes cut into the bottom of the stock air box. This person also reported no performance gains.
The other example (can't remember the name) ran tubing to holes cut into the bottom of the stock air box. This person also reported no performance gains.
The brake ducts are too valuable to me for brake cooling.. I will find a different method if I chose to channel intake air.
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Originally posted by shingles
there has been many albeit unscientific tests that show that with the cover off, the performance is noticable worse than with the top on... all tests being done within a short period of time.
I am sure the box is tuned and the top is part of this tuning as well as insulating engine bay heat.
-Shing
there has been many albeit unscientific tests that show that with the cover off, the performance is noticable worse than with the top on... all tests being done within a short period of time.
I am sure the box is tuned and the top is part of this tuning as well as insulating engine bay heat.
-Shing
-Shing
#19
I've been thinking about a small CAI on the hood, not really a typical ram air setup. Something similar to this, albeit smaller and more tasteful (subtle):
First, there is only 11" from the front lip of the hood to the front of the stock airbox. I would imagine keeping the stock airbox would be the desirable choice, as opposed to forcing people into a different intake (RM Racing's intake, for example). Given the need to have some structure on the front of the hood (high stress concentration when shutting the hood, and when going fast), you could maybe squeeze a 6" long intake area, more likely 5". This severly hinders adding any moisture traps into the hood scoop.
However, small lips could be placed in front of the V cutout, which would guide moisture traveling up off the bumper around the V intake and further up your hood. Moisture coming up the hood (spray off of other vehicles) would likely be a primary culprit of moisture getting into the intake.
The issue of a heavy rainfall would force a good trapping system. The best I can think of off the top of my head would involve having the intake not be sealed against the airbox intake (more on this later). Water could "drop" through an opening in the intake, most likely spraying the engine (bad???). The majority of the air would work its way into the airbox, along with some vapor (unavoidable). The short length of the V cutout is a problem, as having about 12-15" would make this relatively easy.
The last issue deals with the airflow. The scoop I am envisioning (smaller version of the above mustang inlet) would probably work great at low speeds (less then 100-120 I'd guess). At higher speeds, I think the airflow might be less beneficial. As air was rammed into the airbox by higher and higher velocity airflow, the pressure would build up - the pressure in the airbox would not be getting relieved fast enough by the engine intake, and eventually you'd create a situation where the air intake would "seal" itself off (this is related to compressability, which affects airfoils at around 375-400 mph airspeed, but I think it affects inlets at much lower speeds). IF (and boy, do I ever emphasize the IF on this one) this happened, the aforementioned moisture trap would come in handy again - the high pressure would be released down into the engine bay ("spraying" the engine bay with fresh air). So that may be a 2 for 1 benefit, IF it would work in the first place. Someone would need to spend some time with FLUENT (or a similar CFD package) and see what would happen in this.
This rather lengthy post is based on my admittedly limited knowledge of fluid dynamics, thermo, and aerodynamics. It's also late and I'm tired, so my mind may be making up things to get me into bed. If anyone wants to correct or add to this, great.
First, there is only 11" from the front lip of the hood to the front of the stock airbox. I would imagine keeping the stock airbox would be the desirable choice, as opposed to forcing people into a different intake (RM Racing's intake, for example). Given the need to have some structure on the front of the hood (high stress concentration when shutting the hood, and when going fast), you could maybe squeeze a 6" long intake area, more likely 5". This severly hinders adding any moisture traps into the hood scoop.
However, small lips could be placed in front of the V cutout, which would guide moisture traveling up off the bumper around the V intake and further up your hood. Moisture coming up the hood (spray off of other vehicles) would likely be a primary culprit of moisture getting into the intake.
The issue of a heavy rainfall would force a good trapping system. The best I can think of off the top of my head would involve having the intake not be sealed against the airbox intake (more on this later). Water could "drop" through an opening in the intake, most likely spraying the engine (bad???). The majority of the air would work its way into the airbox, along with some vapor (unavoidable). The short length of the V cutout is a problem, as having about 12-15" would make this relatively easy.
The last issue deals with the airflow. The scoop I am envisioning (smaller version of the above mustang inlet) would probably work great at low speeds (less then 100-120 I'd guess). At higher speeds, I think the airflow might be less beneficial. As air was rammed into the airbox by higher and higher velocity airflow, the pressure would build up - the pressure in the airbox would not be getting relieved fast enough by the engine intake, and eventually you'd create a situation where the air intake would "seal" itself off (this is related to compressability, which affects airfoils at around 375-400 mph airspeed, but I think it affects inlets at much lower speeds). IF (and boy, do I ever emphasize the IF on this one) this happened, the aforementioned moisture trap would come in handy again - the high pressure would be released down into the engine bay ("spraying" the engine bay with fresh air). So that may be a 2 for 1 benefit, IF it would work in the first place. Someone would need to spend some time with FLUENT (or a similar CFD package) and see what would happen in this.
This rather lengthy post is based on my admittedly limited knowledge of fluid dynamics, thermo, and aerodynamics. It's also late and I'm tired, so my mind may be making up things to get me into bed. If anyone wants to correct or add to this, great.