davepk

Now Now Ry, Dont panic the guy...

First off i take it that the Tick tick you refere to wasnt there before the adjustment... if so then dont worry about your #4 Cyl just now.

Secondly, You should not have needed to make any big adjustment changes to the valves and only minor changes to about 50% of them or so.
Also, its been my experience that the intake valves tend to be on the loose side and the exhaust valves on the tight side before adjustment.

SaV

There was no ticking before the adjustment. Most, if not all, of the valves were really tight before I adjusted them. Since I used as little drag to determine the clearance, do you think that is the reason why it would be ticking? Should I make them a little tighter? Thanks!

SECRET AP1

hmm... dunno. i don't advise people to do valve adjustments if they've never been shown how to do it. the adjustment itself is largely a matter of "feel." if you've never felt what the "drag" is supposed to feel like, you can be doing it complete wrong. it also matters how you're holding the feeler gauge. if you have it angled incorrectly, you may be feeling premature drag because the feeler isn't straight.

once again.. turning the motor by the cam gear bolt ...especially with the S2000, the cam gears aren't directly connected to the timing chain belt. you're putting way too much stress there. you're moving the motor by the weakest/lightest part. for those who have adjustable cam gears, doing this will most likely cause the outer ring to slip. it's just not a wise thing to do. but if u're going to be stubborn and lazy, then go for it. just a heads up that no half-ass decent shop would ever turn your motor like that.

davepk

S2Sav, The above statement leads me to believe that your technique for determining the clearance isnt working quite right and is leading you to think the valves are tighter than they actually are... If you are intent on doing it your self i would suggest finding someone who has adjusted valves before to double check your clearances... Chances are your current settings are too loose.

krazik

Not trying to scare anyone.

He said

[QUOTE]Originally posted by S2SaV
[B]Just got back from adjusting them . . .they tick louder now .

krazik

Well I will start doing it via the crank. I've been shown how by davepk himself and we all have done a couple valve adjustments. Always turning on the cam bolts. Plugs removed of course.

Thnx for the clarification.

-Ry

Lightning

this is one of the most frightening threads i've seen yet. it's obvious who's comfortable with this and who isn't. changing lights, cosmetics, your own oil, ok - i can see people wanting to 'work' on their cars... but this is straight-out scary. i have lots of mechanical experience with motorcycles, and understand how to do this job. i choose NOT to do it because of the potential consequences. i learned by watching others experienced in this work, and learned by my own experience. not knowing about gaskets, compression, TDC, etc are sure signs that you're over your head. i'm not criticizing; in fact, quite the opposite. i'd hate to be the guy that this fellow comes back to after his top end grenades and says "YOU told me to do it this way." advice should come with a disclaimer. "Listen to me, just not too seriously, because I have NO clue that you're going to do what I tell you correctly." just my $.02.

SECRET AP1

[QUOTE]Originally posted by krazik
[B]

Well I will start doing it via the crank.

98TypeR#21

You say they tick more now, and most if not all were tight. Did you see my note about where the gap is measured? It's a pretty important mistake, and can lead to really huge gaps if you measure between the cam follower and the lifter.

The correct gap is measured at the valve tip where it meets the adjustment end.

krazik

From now on I won't be turning it from the cams.