Upgraded clutch/flywheel
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Upgraded clutch/flywheel
As crazy as this might sound, I'd like to get an upgraded clutch and flywheel for my MY06 S. I have an Exedy Hyper Single in my Civic and thought about getting one for my S. The only problem I have with this setup is that the car bucks if you baby the throttle.
So, I'd like to hear some suggestions from you guys. I'd like a clutch/flywheel that is capable of supporting ~400whp.
So, I'd like to hear some suggestions from you guys. I'd like a clutch/flywheel that is capable of supporting ~400whp.
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Originally Posted by duff0000,Dec 26 2005, 10:33 AM
Many people will tell you to go ACT pressure plate, OEM disk and a Comptech flywheel.
I have a comptech flywheel with the OEM PP and disk, and love how much more rev-happy it is.
I have a comptech flywheel with the OEM PP and disk, and love how much more rev-happy it is.
When it comes to putting down power (say 400whp), what is the most important part of the clutch assembly? Flywheel, disc or pressure plate?
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I believe it's the pressure plate is most important, then comes disc, lastly, flywheel. You'll want a pp that has enough clamping force to handle the torque/hp. This is why many FI'd people are going with a ACT PP (hold approx. <450whp or is it crank?), but with a full face disk for a more streetable clutch.
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3, 4, or 6 puck refers to the clutch disk. These are generally considered full race discs. They have 3, 4, or 6 large contact areas that grab very hard. They are not as easy to drive on the street and can wear out faster if not operated correctly.
I'm new to the S2k, but I don't think the OEM would be considered full race, but it can definitely hold a lot of power with an upgraded pressure plate. If you want more aggressive but still maintain streetability, you can go with an upgraded clutch surface, such as full kevlar face, or kevlar and carbon face.. then you start hitting the faces with pads (puck style).
I'm new to the S2k, but I don't think the OEM would be considered full race, but it can definitely hold a lot of power with an upgraded pressure plate. If you want more aggressive but still maintain streetability, you can go with an upgraded clutch surface, such as full kevlar face, or kevlar and carbon face.. then you start hitting the faces with pads (puck style).
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Originally Posted by vtec9,Dec 26 2005, 12:30 PM
3, 4, or 6 puck refers to the clutch disk. These are generally considered full race discs. They have 3, 4, or 6 large contact areas that grab very hard. They are not as easy to drive on the street and can wear out faster if not operated correctly.
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The exedy single available for the S is pretty much an on/off clutch...harder to drive due to this nature. Some people have it, but if you drive in traffic or lots of start/stop, it's going to be a pain to modulate.
You can have a full face race disk if a maker modfies the material on the lining as vtec9 mentioned. Btw, a 6 puck grabs really hard and has little chatter, and a 4 puck doesn't grab as hard, but chatters more. A 4 puck will more "streetable" but with more noise.
You can have a full face race disk if a maker modfies the material on the lining as vtec9 mentioned. Btw, a 6 puck grabs really hard and has little chatter, and a 4 puck doesn't grab as hard, but chatters more. A 4 puck will more "streetable" but with more noise.
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Any reason I wouldn't choose a Toda flywheel? Weighs 8.36 lbs as compared to the Comptech flywheel which ways 9.2 lbs. Costs about $120 more so it might not be worth the weight savings.