STL

[QUOTE]Originally posted by cmnsnse
[B]Statement true if tread patterns are identcal. Were not talking a major change, I have footprints if you would like to see them. I just have to figure out the area's, but then of course you have different compounds and patterns that effect performance. Let's not draw this one out.

cmnsnse

[QUOTE]Originally posted by STL
[B]You are correct that other factors like tread compound will have an effect on the handling outcome (but not the area).

STL

No a PP will not have less rubber touching the ground than an OEM tire (if they are both inflated to the SAME psi)! The PP will have a slimmer, more narrow (but longer) footprint when compared to an OEM tire...but they should have (almost) the exactly the same amount of rubber touching the road. A slimmer footprint is better for rain performance -- that's why the PPs are designed to be that way. This has been discussed at length before in a thread here on this forum.

Different tire construction might have some small effects, but by and large the different construction will define how the tire deforms under load -- so it will mostly only effect the geometry of the footprint.

cmnsnse

[QUOTE]Originally posted by STL
[B]No a PP will not have less rubber touching the ground than an OEM tire (if they are both inflated to the SAME psi)!

STL

Okay I've been going back and forth on this myself, and after further consideration I think my statements would really only apply to slicks (tires without tread). So you're right it's the footprint's area that would remain (about) constant despite changes in tire size (give equal inflation and loads). But different tread patterns could change the amount of rubber actually touching the road from tire to tire. It's been a very long time since my last statics class!

Please posts those pictures of footprints you have when you can. What procedure did you use the attain them?

cmnsnse

I only have fnt/rear OEM at mid-life, rear PP's mid-life, and my RE730's at about 1000 miles. I wish I had gotten my BFG's

What I do is clean the tire while the wheel is lifted with a jack at the arm,(thats only about 1cm to minimize the pattern being scuffed) and apply flake graphite (a dry lubricant, but works great for marking) to what I think is larger than the patch. Then turn that part so it is on the underside and lower the wheel onto a thin sheet of paper that is placed on top of a thin sheet of steel (flattest sirface I could find).

Then raise the wheel (lifting by the suspension arm with floor jack/wood to protect it)

Then I trace the outline carefully, scan it into the computer, fill the areas and scale it so it has the right proportions when compared to the others. All I have to do is figure the area's, I might as well do it in square cm's.

I have other things to do but will try to get these posted in the next few days.

AusS2000

Anyone check these out?

FALKEN GRB RS TUNER

Reviews look good.

jschmidt

Had these tires years ago. They were great. For my money, Falken is the best of the B-list performance tire manufacturers.

AusS2000

I had Falkens on my BMW 318is and it handled great.

I just wonder why no one has mentioned them yet. Or is it a brand name thing?

STL

Another thing when considering aftermarket tires might be the ratio of the front and rear contact patch. Supposedly the 225s were have on the rear have a wider patch than the average 225, and I've also heard the 205s we have on front have a slightly narrower patch then the average 205. It's obvious to see the front treadpattern is a lot more open than the rear treadpattern. If this is all indeed true then an optimal aftermarket setup might require something more like a 245/205 pair -- depending of the tires. Just something else that needs more investigation!