Right... as the topic said... I have been thinking about it these days... As I have an offer for my S2000... since I have got a lot of advice and done so much research... I couldn't came up with an answer... therefore, I would like to hear from you guys as well....

I personally own 07 S2000 AP1 (UK version) for 1 year now... which is very nice in every way... AP2 look, F20c engine... It is just Amazing!!

However, Just when I start to Mod my car... I came across a 06 AP2 (Japanese version)... now... My mind is struggling between these 2...

Let me put out some points...
1. Since I do Have AP2 looks... it is down to power... UK AP1 is actually 10 HP less than normal AP1...due to compression ratio... However, it benefit from all the upgrades through out the years except with the 9000rpm engine^^
2. If I am going to to Mod it anyway... so... spring rate or wheel size don't matter... does it more worth it to mod with?? ap1 or ap2?? & which one has more potential to go further (without putting in turbo or supercharge)??
3. I have driven both stock version... I am not a straight line guy... However, when it comes to corners... I do feel like I can get higher speed when I exit the corner without the tail moving about with AP2... is it due to the chassis, torque or my lack of skills??


Thank you for your patients and time

 

Well the face lifted 2004+ Euro cars still got all the other upgrades of the AP2. The only difference is pretty much displacement.
2.0L vs 2.2L

You're getting more "speed" from the AP2 because of the extra torque the car has. I believe the Japanese cars have slightly more power too.

They aren't worlds apart but I'd say the AP2 would be better for modifying engine wise.

 

Are you boosting? Lower compression on the F20C would be better for boost.

Otherwise it does appear the F22C produce more actual power. Slightly hidden by the SAE changes.

 

Are they both Flaspro compatible? It makes a huge difference for ease of extracting full potential from power mods.

 

Honda did not change the power rating until MY 2006. 2004 Ap2s were produced in my2003, well before. Honda should of bumped the hp up to 250hp then.

 

Totally understand that... Put it this way....I am after a F20c engine to F22c engine... see if you guys have any idea or comments for me...

I do understand they are not world apart... one with higher and longer revving limit... & one have more mid range power band and torque

Both have pros and cons in terms of different Characters~~

but doesn't explain how it can keep the tail WITHOUT moving outward while I am gaining more speed in corners



What do you mean by boosting?? Turbo or supercharge??
I think I would like to keep it with NA thou~~


Flashpro not a bad choice... but if worst case... I can still use K-pro~~^^

 

sticky tires.....right size that is and suspension and chassis modds. loads of hp is pointless if it doesn't handle worth a crap.

 

i think the car you have now is better. You can pick up the midrange on your car by lowering VTEC, but you will never wind an F22 to 9000 rpm.

If I had done more pre-purchase homework, and been aware of the huge midrange gains available, I would probably have bought an '03 (F20 in the US) instead of the '04 (F22) that I actually bought. Oh well.

 

You didn't mention changing gearing (and I assume that the 2.0 engine always kept the original transmission gearing.)
So: top speed in gear is considerably higher for 2.0 than 2.2 cars, due to both higher gearing and higher red line.
2.0: 32 64 89 114 136 163 (drag limited to about 150)
2.2: 26 56 77 98 121 150

This lead to an interesting difference in autocross. 2.0 uses 1st all the time, but 3rd not often. With 2.2, 1st rarely useful, too short, but annoying cross gate shifts between 2nd and 3rd are frequent on faster courses.
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There is more useful VTEC rev range with 2.0 before upshift is required. 2.0 has a greater portion of its rev range in vtec.
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Handling quirks of the early 2.0s are well understood and easy corrected, so I don't think that's an issue for you. Rear shocks had bump rate too high, which lead to rear walking out over ripples and bumps. Basic handling was terminal understeer. Thus the quick surprise transition from push to spin. Koni yellows solve the shock rate. Both are helped by a great mother front sway-bar. Suspension alignment for fine tuning.
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