Screw the dealership
#11
Lesson 1 never go to the dealer with your car. Most of them no longer have the techs that can work on these cars and their labor rates for jobs like the clutch are nuts as you found out.
Lesson 2 have a inspection done when buying a car. You didn't mention how many miles the CR had but it is a good idea especially when there are red flags like paint inconsistencies.
For the back end maybe it is just a bad wheel bearing? Hard to say when the only description is it is loose.
Lesson 2 have a inspection done when buying a car. You didn't mention how many miles the CR had but it is a good idea especially when there are red flags like paint inconsistencies.
For the back end maybe it is just a bad wheel bearing? Hard to say when the only description is it is loose.
#12
like others have said I would just re-bleed the clutch system
If you already have an aftermarket clutch in it then it might not be adjusted properly. I had to do this with my CC 6 puck clutch as it tended to catch/grind at high rpm shifts.
And make sure you buy a new oem throw out bearing with every new clutch install.
If you already have an aftermarket clutch in it then it might not be adjusted properly. I had to do this with my CC 6 puck clutch as it tended to catch/grind at high rpm shifts.
And make sure you buy a new oem throw out bearing with every new clutch install.
#13
I'd like to echo the replacement of TO bearing with an OEM unit. Do not use the TO supplied in the Exedy kit, it will fail and will require you to remove the clutch and do that job all over. Many of us learned the hard way, including myself. Lesson learned.
#14
Just like everybody else is saying. Check the clutch master cylinder.
Sounds like either your master/slave cylinder is leaking OR you just need to fill up clutch fluid and bleed the system.
Might just be a $50 fix.
Sounds like either your master/slave cylinder is leaking OR you just need to fill up clutch fluid and bleed the system.
Might just be a $50 fix.
#15
My last trip to the Honda dealership with my S2000 resulted in a lawsuit and them settling for $2500 to replace the wheels on my car they messed up. I do all my own stuff, but couldn't do new tires without the tire machines.
#16
Would the master cylinder cause the clutch to make this heavy friction feeling / scratching feeling in the clutch pedal whenever I begin to let up on it?
Edit:
Alright, Here's the story when I came to pick it up..
They made sure to write down all over the form "Not safe to drive"
I talked to the lady rep, She said the mechanic looked at it and the clutch it going out..
My clutch doesn't slip at all, but alright.. So I asked what they did to diagnose it to come to that conclusion..
She stated "The Mechanic did what he needed to do." Really? Great answer.
I asked what did he need to do? Did he bleed the system? She said no.. She stated that he put the car on the lift and looked at it.
I paid 110$ for them to put my car on a lift and look at it. Now I'm 100% sure they're completely useless. I don't regret taking it there, I just had to be sure how incapable they are first hand.
Then I asked about the right rear suspension that's "bad."
She said the tire/wheel wobbles really bad and all the parts were worn.. and they tightened a nut in there.
I figured something was wrong with my suspension awhile ago but I thought it was from bump steer (cause the car has been lowered quite a bit.) They wanted another 110$ for them to diagnose the rear end.. I told them no..
She couldn't give me a decent answer with any of my questions, so I said screw it, paid my 110$, and left.
My car does handle a little bit weird now around turns. They seemed really shady, kinda worried they intentionally did something to it.. maybe I sound paranoid.
It kind of sucks cause I actually had money to spend this month so I can buy a laptop for college..
Edit:
Alright, Here's the story when I came to pick it up..
They made sure to write down all over the form "Not safe to drive"
I talked to the lady rep, She said the mechanic looked at it and the clutch it going out..
My clutch doesn't slip at all, but alright.. So I asked what they did to diagnose it to come to that conclusion..
She stated "The Mechanic did what he needed to do." Really? Great answer.
I asked what did he need to do? Did he bleed the system? She said no.. She stated that he put the car on the lift and looked at it.
I paid 110$ for them to put my car on a lift and look at it. Now I'm 100% sure they're completely useless. I don't regret taking it there, I just had to be sure how incapable they are first hand.
Then I asked about the right rear suspension that's "bad."
She said the tire/wheel wobbles really bad and all the parts were worn.. and they tightened a nut in there.
I figured something was wrong with my suspension awhile ago but I thought it was from bump steer (cause the car has been lowered quite a bit.) They wanted another 110$ for them to diagnose the rear end.. I told them no..
She couldn't give me a decent answer with any of my questions, so I said screw it, paid my 110$, and left.
My car does handle a little bit weird now around turns. They seemed really shady, kinda worried they intentionally did something to it.. maybe I sound paranoid.
It kind of sucks cause I actually had money to spend this month so I can buy a laptop for college..
#18
The scratchy feeling sounds like you need to polish and lube the slave cylinder pushrod. You get the car on stands, get under the trans and remove the slave cylinder. You will find this short rod with a round ball end. You clean the ball end, then chuck up the rod in your drill, and using something like a scotch pad, polish while drill turned.
Then you get a rag and do your best to clean off the socket end that this rod pushes against, but its way tucked in the trans. Then you grease the heck out of both rod and socket (preferably using Honda's urea grease), then reassemble. Clutch will feel silky smooth.
I bet if you replace clutch fluid and gravity bleed it, and relube the slave pushrod and adjust clutch play, all your shifting issues will go away. Total cost? Like $20 for grease and brake fluid, plus elbow grease.
Even if you have a mechanic fix it, make sure they do these things first, before tearing into the clutch. Your issues are very common, and these are the fixes.
Then you get a rag and do your best to clean off the socket end that this rod pushes against, but its way tucked in the trans. Then you grease the heck out of both rod and socket (preferably using Honda's urea grease), then reassemble. Clutch will feel silky smooth.
I bet if you replace clutch fluid and gravity bleed it, and relube the slave pushrod and adjust clutch play, all your shifting issues will go away. Total cost? Like $20 for grease and brake fluid, plus elbow grease.
Even if you have a mechanic fix it, make sure they do these things first, before tearing into the clutch. Your issues are very common, and these are the fixes.
#20
Not necessarily. I recently did this on my car. Owned it for almost 2 years, and it started feeling scratching, hadn't been doing it before and it just started suddenly.
Besides, its a good thing to do, car will benefit, its easy to do, so easy to rule out as the issue.
Always do the easy, cheap, and common fixes before really tearing into something.
Besides, its a good thing to do, car will benefit, its easy to do, so easy to rule out as the issue.
Always do the easy, cheap, and common fixes before really tearing into something.
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