Sanded headlight 1500, 2000, PlasticX, not good.
08-05-2009, 08:49 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sanded headlight 1500, 2000, PlasticX, not good.
So, the Previous Owner had some tint on there but it was a thick piece and alot of adhesive. Used plastic safe Goo Gone and got adhesive off but headlight was not clear. Then I used 1500 sandpaper and finished with 2000 sandpaper, then i used Meguires PlasticX on a buffing pad, but i have no orbital. Now my back is sore and My headlight is still not clear =(.
My question is, do I need an orbital to finish this job
? Because it seems like the hand polish technique is not working. Anyone done this before?
My question is, do I need an orbital to finish this job
? Because it seems like the hand polish technique is not working. Anyone done this before?
08-05-2009, 09:08 AM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: West Chester PA
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sounds like you're on the right track, just need to go to finer grits. The kit that I have goes all the way to 12000 grit, then finishes with a "micro-gloss liquid abrasive." I then do a plastic polish on top of that. See link below for the one I have (I've also seen similar kits by 3M at Pep Boys).
http://micro-surface.com/index.php?main_pa...33d106252bf58cb
All the polishing is done by hand, and I've had very good results on my previous s2k ('02, 50k miles) and my GTI ('00, 122k miles). I'm sure it'd be easier with an orbital, but I don't think you need one.
Short answer -- get some finer grits, and do the sanding wet (I use a 20 oz water bottle with a few drops of dish soap mixed in).
Hope this helps and good luck
http://micro-surface.com/index.php?main_pa...33d106252bf58cb
All the polishing is done by hand, and I've had very good results on my previous s2k ('02, 50k miles) and my GTI ('00, 122k miles). I'm sure it'd be easier with an orbital, but I don't think you need one.
Short answer -- get some finer grits, and do the sanding wet (I use a 20 oz water bottle with a few drops of dish soap mixed in).
Hope this helps and good luck
08-05-2009, 11:22 AM
#6
Registered User
Straight dish soap and a shot of water is the ideal lubricant too. It needs to stay wet the entire time, and you need to clean or replace the sandpaper frequently.
Trending Topics
08-05-2009, 12:29 PM
#8
Registered User
don't forget to clearcoat the finish once you get it nice and clear, your OEM UV protection coating is now gone for good, if you don't clearcoat it you'll end up doing it again and again.
Most people would just wax it from time to time but it gets old after a while, i clearcoated mine
if you are going with the clearcoat route, you don't even need to buff it down to crytal clear, it needs a tad of mirco scratch to get the most mechanical adhesion.
Most people would just wax it from time to time but it gets old after a while, i clearcoated mine
if you are going with the clearcoat route, you don't even need to buff it down to crytal clear, it needs a tad of mirco scratch to get the most mechanical adhesion.
08-05-2009, 02:41 PM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: VA
Posts: 597
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yeah you need a buffer slowest speed so you dont burn the plastic! You can use a couple different compounds but I used 3M perfect-it rubbing compound and finished it with a good hand glaze. Once you buff it you will see some small scratches that you missed. What i did is wet sand it with 2000 grit and keep wiping the headlight with a damp rag to remove the residue. Once it looks like you got it how you want it then buff,wipe clean,and wax