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@HardFlip
that's how mine looked before I closed it the first time. Nothing is going to situate properly until it's closed and stretched. Even closed for the first week mine had the wrinkles under the corners of the bottom glass. One thing I will say is you do not need to attach the rain rail to the top. They do that at the factory to hasten assembly. Attaching the rain rail to the top can actually cause wrinkles especially in the non oem tops.
Of course I can't say if the install was done correctly, but what you are describing doesn't seem too out of the ordinary, and the pictures don't look different than mine before the first install.
I can relate my roof was very hard (comparatively) to close after the roof was replaced. I recall the installer recommended leaving the roof up for several days and (maybe) parking in the sun to help the roof stretch out. Professional, highly skilled and experienced installer, though, not me in the back yard and at no time looked like your photos.
@HardFlip
that's how mine looked before I closed it the first time. Nothing is going to situate properly until it's closed and stretched. Even closed for the first week mine had the wrinkles under the corners of the bottom glass. One thing I will say is you do not need to attach the rain rail to the top. They do that at the factory to hasten assembly. Attaching the rain rail to the top can actually cause wrinkles especially in the non oem tops.
Of course I can't say if the install was done correctly, but what you are describing doesn't seem too out of the ordinary, and the pictures don't look different than mine before the first install.
Thanks for the response.
I actually took off the metal panels that hold the rain rail + soft top to the rear metal pegs (with the top still in place and the top was still up). I just undid all the nuts holding the top on, and then used my hands to move the material around to try to get the fabric to settle into the correct way. Basically I just tugged on the fabric a bunch to get it to flatten out. When I put the metal panels back on the pegs, I tightened the three middle nuts, then both the side panels and only sort of tightened the corner nuts. I trued them all up and then went back to the corners and tightened them down. This seemed to get rid of some of the wrinkles, although it may just be me stretching the material out more. IN any case, they flattened out some.
Now i Just have to figure out how to get the damn thing closed up and latched.
I'm an inch away but still working on it.
I do have to say thank you for your input. I read your posts prior to starting and it was super helpful. Particularly impressed with the contact cement you recommended. Worked like a charm. It was also pretty easy to clean up some spillage i had with denatured alcohol. (I'm clumsy). I also used the smooth Velcro on the bow that rubs, that seems to be working great so far as well.
I actually took off the metal panels that hold the rain rail + soft top to the rear metal pegs (with the top still in place and the top was still up). I just undid all the nuts holding the top on, and then used my hands to move the material around to try to get the fabric to settle into the correct way. Basically I just tugged on the fabric a bunch to get it to flatten out. When I put the metal panels back on the pegs, I tightened the three middle nuts, then both the side panels and only sort of tightened the corner nuts. I trued them all up and then went back to the corners and tightened them down. This seemed to get rid of some of the wrinkles, although it may just be me stretching the material out more. IN any case, they flattened out some.
Now i Just have to figure out how to get the damn thing closed up and latched.
I'm an inch away but still working on it.
I do have to say thank you for your input. I read your posts prior to starting and it was super helpful. Particularly impressed with the contact cement you recommended. Worked like a charm. It was also pretty easy to clean up some spillage i had with denatured alcohol. (I'm clumsy). I also used the smooth Velcro on the bow that rubs, that seems to be working great so far as well.
Many thanks.
Glad to hear it was helpful. I try to research projects but never know if it's worth posting about or not. FYI that smooth velcro also works great on the cabin trim to solidify it and keep it from rattling, especially in colder temps. I had a squeak in the trim on the body that is closest to the door locks. A couple of patches of this stuff and the trim is on solid, tight, and noise free.
Drilling out the rivets for the elastic straps, the directions say "blow them out the other side". Does that mean drill through the rivet and out the bar on the other side??
Drilling out the rivets for the elastic straps, the directions say "blow them out the other side". Does that mean drill through the rivet and out the bar on the other side??
No. On the ends of the bars there’s plastic caps. Remove the caps and blow the rivet pieces out with compressed air that are inside of the bar after you drill them out
No instructions came with my Robbins top last year. Installer didn't need them he's done so many. The rivets will end up inside the roof bars and rattle unless blow out. I neglected to do this when I put a new roof on my MGB long ago with predictable results but barely heard over the other rattles.
I’m just about done installing a Robbins cloth top on my car but I’m a bit stumped on how to button everything down on the front bow.
I’m not sure what to do with the flap of material by where the cable is riveted on.
Setting it like this and then using double side tape to get everything down seems intuitive to me but the longer botttom flap not having a hole is making me hesitant. I was thinking to just mount everything up and putting a hole for the screw here.
Or would this be the correct way?
I’ve tried searching everywhere for a clear answer but haven’t been able to find it. Anyone with a Robbins cloth top already installed wanna check how theirs is installed for me?
05-12-2020, 06:48 PM
