Recommend Changing my own oil?- never done it before...wonder why you all do?
#1
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Recommend Changing my own oil?- never done it before...wonder why you all do?
Previously, I owned a Honda Accord, and I was content to take it to this cheapo place and get my oil, filter, and lube, for $20. The job takes less than 5 minutes, so you are in and out.
I'm moving to the Mobile 1, 10W 30 synthetic oil, and I was wondering if it's efficient for me to change my own oil from both a cost and time perspective.
I've never worked on cars before, but I'm pretty sure I could figure out how to do it. However, I don't own any equipment. So I don't have a drip pan, car-jack, funnel, filter, or the oil. Also, my apt complex won;t let me change the oil in my driveway, so I'd have to go somewhere else.
Should I invest the money to start chaning my own?
I'm moving to the Mobile 1, 10W 30 synthetic oil, and I was wondering if it's efficient for me to change my own oil from both a cost and time perspective.
I've never worked on cars before, but I'm pretty sure I could figure out how to do it. However, I don't own any equipment. So I don't have a drip pan, car-jack, funnel, filter, or the oil. Also, my apt complex won;t let me change the oil in my driveway, so I'd have to go somewhere else.
Should I invest the money to start chaning my own?
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I stopped changing my own oil about 7 years ago. I would crawl under the car, suv, Honda Accord etc and get dirty, aggravated (didn't jack up car but had 3 different oil filter wrenches and the minor equipment needed). Finally determined my garage mechanic was competent enough to service my cars other needs why not let him do this work instead of me saving $5-10. Use to enjoy it-too old (56). Don't need to be ASA certified to change oil. That's my opinion.
RBH
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#3
I've had bad experiences with some of the cheap quick lube places-- they use defective filters, incorrectly torque nuts, wrong oil type, wrong quantity, etc. so doing it yourself (if you are confident) assures that you are doing a proper job, and minimise the chance of having your engine seize up on the highway due to a missing oil plug.
It'll take you some time the first time. All you need are the right wrenches, some pan, and filter wrench. Then you have to go dispose of the old oil properly. It's up to you if you think it's worth the time and effort to do it yourself.
Here's what I have to pay here:
Honda oil filter and washer 16 euro
6 litres 10W-60 Castrol 45 euro
(save 15 euro if using 10W-40)
///Robin
It'll take you some time the first time. All you need are the right wrenches, some pan, and filter wrench. Then you have to go dispose of the old oil properly. It's up to you if you think it's worth the time and effort to do it yourself.
Here's what I have to pay here:
Honda oil filter and washer 16 euro
6 litres 10W-60 Castrol 45 euro
(save 15 euro if using 10W-40)
///Robin
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If I do it then I know its done right. I let my local mechanic change the oil on my beater, but when it comes to the S, I take it upon myself to do the change. I just feel better knowing what was done and how it was done.
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All you need to do is look at the threads about mechanics not putting the oil cap on, or not taking a stuck gasket off the head after taking the oil filter off etc. etc. to determine if you would rather do it and feel safe or take your chances and hope it's done correctly.
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It just occurred to me that a jack comes with our car for chaning the tire....
Can I use that to lift for the oil change? or is that very dangerous?
Dreamgetter, thanks for your thoughts.
The part that worries me is that I don't know what a gasket is, let alone what a stuck one might look like.
Can I use that to lift for the oil change? or is that very dangerous?
Dreamgetter, thanks for your thoughts.
The part that worries me is that I don't know what a gasket is, let alone what a stuck one might look like.
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You can use the jack that comes with the car, but it's really not recommended. Before I had the money to buy a "real" jack, I used to use that all the time.
Anyway, you mentioned that the oil change only takes about 5 mins at the cheapo place. The problem is, if you change your own oil, you'll notice that the old oil takes quite a while to fully drain. Therefore, if you are at one of those "speedy" places, how can you really be sure that ALL of the old oil has been drained? If it's not properly drained, you'll have a lot of old and new oil mixed together, which just makes dirty oil.
Anyway, you mentioned that the oil change only takes about 5 mins at the cheapo place. The problem is, if you change your own oil, you'll notice that the old oil takes quite a while to fully drain. Therefore, if you are at one of those "speedy" places, how can you really be sure that ALL of the old oil has been drained? If it's not properly drained, you'll have a lot of old and new oil mixed together, which just makes dirty oil.
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#8
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You should get a jack stand (get a pair while you are at it). Never get under the car with just the tire jack unless you are only four inches in height when you are supine or you want to be four inches in height somewhere you aren't already four inches.
If you want a reasonable amount of safety and feel that you may want to do other work on you car in the future, you should also get wheel chocks to keep the car from rolling once it's jacked up, torque wrench to properly tighten the bolts (that's probably the most likely damage an oil change place would do: cross-thread your bolt opening or strip it by overtightening) and a fender cover (I think it's called an apron) to keep from damaging the car when you drop tools or parts on it while working. Also consider a hydraulic jack to lift the car. It would probably cost less that $120 to get all this stuff, but it would make your work much easier and maybe safer.
If you want a reasonable amount of safety and feel that you may want to do other work on you car in the future, you should also get wheel chocks to keep the car from rolling once it's jacked up, torque wrench to properly tighten the bolts (that's probably the most likely damage an oil change place would do: cross-thread your bolt opening or strip it by overtightening) and a fender cover (I think it's called an apron) to keep from damaging the car when you drop tools or parts on it while working. Also consider a hydraulic jack to lift the car. It would probably cost less that $120 to get all this stuff, but it would make your work much easier and maybe safer.
#9
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do NOT use the Honda jack (or any jack for that matter) without using jackstands. I personally dont trust my life to anything that fits in my pocket
*edit* man we were all over this one!
*edit* man we were all over this one!
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very good point!
I've decided to change my own oil thanks to all of your opinions/ suggestion.
One last thing. Can you give me some oil changing pointers? Do I need start it up and drive as normal when I am done?
Fill in this sentence..."After you let the old oil drain out, you should make sure to ______________"
I've decided to change my own oil thanks to all of your opinions/ suggestion.
One last thing. Can you give me some oil changing pointers? Do I need start it up and drive as normal when I am done?
Fill in this sentence..."After you let the old oil drain out, you should make sure to ______________"