rear traction answers!
#21
Originally Posted by petawabit,Nov 22 2008, 04:20 PM
do you have a wing? I've noticed my spoiler makes the rear more stable at freeway speeds
#22
Originally Posted by ace123,Nov 22 2008, 03:36 PM
Do you know how to heel-toe?
If not, it will help dramatically. If executed perfectly, heel-toe shifting will completely cancel the abrupt transition when you downshift. If done poorly but at least done, it will reduce the jerk.
If not, it will help dramatically. If executed perfectly, heel-toe shifting will completely cancel the abrupt transition when you downshift. If done poorly but at least done, it will reduce the jerk.
#23
not gonna read responses, you want zero camber.
if u have zero camber on the largest tires possible, you are at the limits of traction for straight line.
here's an illustration, i know its crude:
_|_ _|_
keep in mind this is only for the drive wheels, the fronts don't contribute much into straight line acceleration. if all the weight is centered on both tires, then the distribution of weight goes on the contact patch as evenly as possible.
please feel free to correct me if im wrong.
and why do you want to be going so fast on public streets? although im against it, i know that many of us do it including myself. The only word of advice i'll give you is to be aware of the conditions. if your tires are not meant for humid or wet roads, do NOT push it no matter what. being outrun by a nissan stanza is better than risking your life. and learn your limits, take your car out and fish it a few times to know what RPM/speed/gear you can expect it at and also what it feels like so you can counter it accordingly. i can't stress this last thing enough, PRACTICE driving. i don't care if you're tsuchiya, it doesn't matter. go outside spend 20$ on gas and get to an open area to rip it up. bring cones, soda cans, whatever.
if u have zero camber on the largest tires possible, you are at the limits of traction for straight line.
here's an illustration, i know its crude:
_|_ _|_
keep in mind this is only for the drive wheels, the fronts don't contribute much into straight line acceleration. if all the weight is centered on both tires, then the distribution of weight goes on the contact patch as evenly as possible.
please feel free to correct me if im wrong.
and why do you want to be going so fast on public streets? although im against it, i know that many of us do it including myself. The only word of advice i'll give you is to be aware of the conditions. if your tires are not meant for humid or wet roads, do NOT push it no matter what. being outrun by a nissan stanza is better than risking your life. and learn your limits, take your car out and fish it a few times to know what RPM/speed/gear you can expect it at and also what it feels like so you can counter it accordingly. i can't stress this last thing enough, PRACTICE driving. i don't care if you're tsuchiya, it doesn't matter. go outside spend 20$ on gas and get to an open area to rip it up. bring cones, soda cans, whatever.
#24
Originally Posted by juntuned,Nov 22 2008, 04:04 PM
So now it belongs in a forum with less knowledge because someone doesnt see the sense in removing the rear sway?????
Having a separate Racing and Competition forum is pointless if people post about street cars in it anyway, and people who don't know anything about race car setup feel compelled to add their two cents. That's why the Racing and Competition moderators usually aggressively move threads like this one out and are very much appreciated for it -- I'm not sure why this one hasn't been moved as well.
[QUOTE=ECale3,Nov 22 2008, 04:18 PM]As to the other guy who quoted me...No need to be a dick.
#28
my bad, my bad--reading comprehension FTW i guess...
you only heel-toe when braking, not when accelerating. doing the same thing is just rev-matching when accelerating, and that's what the OP needs to do if he's not already. the fact that you're downshifting abruptly made me jump to heel-toe i guess...
for those that don't know what heel-toe shifting is, it's just a rev-matching technique. you brake with your toe and quickly punch the throttle with your heel to rev-match while you downshift. it's just rev-matching so your wheels don't get an abrupt jerk when you change gears.
as for a bit more on why, at a basic level, you heel-toe (and rev-match) to keep the car balanced and avoid losing traction (worst case, oversteering into a wall).
here's an example: if you're hitting the brakes hard while going around a corner and want to be able to get right back on the throttle (in lower gear) as soon as you start to exit, think about what would happen if you slam it into gear without the rpms being anywhere close to where they should be. your rpms fell while braking, and in reality they should increase since you're dropping gears and staying in VTEC. your wheels would slip as they try to match the engine's speed to the appropriate geared level. since the wheels start to slip, if you're pushing it hard around the corner, the tires will probably let go entirely and you'll end up sliding around the corner at high speeds and put your S into a ditch. no fun there. at best, you jerk yourself into position and you weren't close to the limits of the tires. which is good because you didn't know what you were doing, so being at the ragged edge would be risking ruining your car.
so rev-match, that's what the OP needs to do. and this is very basic, so that's why people suggested using a different forum.
you only heel-toe when braking, not when accelerating. doing the same thing is just rev-matching when accelerating, and that's what the OP needs to do if he's not already. the fact that you're downshifting abruptly made me jump to heel-toe i guess...
for those that don't know what heel-toe shifting is, it's just a rev-matching technique. you brake with your toe and quickly punch the throttle with your heel to rev-match while you downshift. it's just rev-matching so your wheels don't get an abrupt jerk when you change gears.
as for a bit more on why, at a basic level, you heel-toe (and rev-match) to keep the car balanced and avoid losing traction (worst case, oversteering into a wall).
here's an example: if you're hitting the brakes hard while going around a corner and want to be able to get right back on the throttle (in lower gear) as soon as you start to exit, think about what would happen if you slam it into gear without the rpms being anywhere close to where they should be. your rpms fell while braking, and in reality they should increase since you're dropping gears and staying in VTEC. your wheels would slip as they try to match the engine's speed to the appropriate geared level. since the wheels start to slip, if you're pushing it hard around the corner, the tires will probably let go entirely and you'll end up sliding around the corner at high speeds and put your S into a ditch. no fun there. at best, you jerk yourself into position and you weren't close to the limits of the tires. which is good because you didn't know what you were doing, so being at the ragged edge would be risking ruining your car.
so rev-match, that's what the OP needs to do. and this is very basic, so that's why people suggested using a different forum.
#29
Juntuned...what ECU are you using? If it is the AEM EMS enable the traction control.
BTW...removing the rear sway bar will only impact rear traction when cornering. The sway bar doesn't do much to change straight line.
BTW...removing the rear sway bar will only impact rear traction when cornering. The sway bar doesn't do much to change straight line.
#30
Originally Posted by negcamber,Nov 22 2008, 07:38 PM
Juntuned...what ECU are you using? If it is the AEM EMS enable the traction control.
BTW...removing the rear sway bar will only impact rear traction when cornering. The sway bar doesn't do much to change straight line.
BTW...removing the rear sway bar will only impact rear traction when cornering. The sway bar doesn't do much to change straight line.
Im one of the few running F-con!!! (thats another story/nightmare)