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Rattle noise when Idle

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Old 03-18-2001, 09:07 PM
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I've been searching the archives here looking for an explanation for a rattling noise I hear when the car is sitting idle. I remember reading someone posting something about this a while back, but I can't find the post now. Its a noise that sounds similar to a tin soup can with a couple bolts rattling gently in it. Its not loud- and you must listen closely to hear it, but its constant during idle and must be drown out at higher RPM's. It doesn't appear to lessen when the engine warms up.

Can anyone say what this is or point me to a thread regarding it? I tried several searches with no luck.

The noise definitely comes from the engine compartment...

-B
Old 03-19-2001, 01:01 AM
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I have the same problem with mine. It first happened around the 2000 - 3500 rpm, but it now happens at idle. I 've booked the car in for an inspection at the end of the month. Other plablems are
1. Vtec limiter is not working
2. Water hazard light ocassionally flashes at idle.

What next can go wrong !

Purchased A VCR a couple of weeks ago. Guess what. The unit could not fit in the boot. What a car!

https://www.s2ki.com/images/serviceb054.jpg
Old 03-19-2001, 01:56 AM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by bguernsey
[B]I've been searching the archives here looking for an explanation for a rattling noise I hear when the car is sitting idle.
Old 03-19-2001, 07:57 AM
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Barry--

Yea, I first thought of piston #4, but my car is a 2000 model (Made in March, bought in May). Also I'm using no oil whatsoever and check it religiously. I'm at about 5300 miles now. I've had the oil changed once at 3700, with synthetic (bad choice for an 'early' change, but no known problems yet).

I don't hear it from the exhaust, but I do hear the familiar occasional misfiring of a plug and that bothers me.

I'm thinking you might be right about the misadjusted valve. I have avoided taking the car in because I've heard too many rumors of them coming back worse off. It all depends on your service department and I haven't gotton a feel for mine yet. I have thus far not had any of the TSB's done- including the seat belt recall. (why fix what ain't broke yet!)

-B
Old 03-19-2001, 08:17 AM
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This "rattling noise" - does it happen on all model years for the S2K?

Can you explain on the Vtec limiter not working?

Thanks,
Mark
Old 03-19-2001, 08:53 AM
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I HOPE HOPE HOPE your problem is something simple.

In my experience, letting the dealer handle it is the right move. I don't think they'll do any harm. They might tell you it is nothing to worry about, but, that might be right too.

Three of the eight #4 piston problems (or tap-tap-tap problems) were MY2000. Two of the eight definitely were not oil consumers. All eight had an engine noise that was metallic tapping of one sort or another. There are a couple of other metallic engine noise cars that have NOT been diagnosed yet...Bassman's and S2kguy's.

Barry
Old 03-19-2001, 10:10 AM
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Your description is very good for what I have heard in my S2K. I considered valve noise, but it was not an even, consistent or rhythmic sound as I would expect a tappet to be. Eventually mine went away with the car at ~15k miles after it started a few k miles before that. The only major change was addition of Denso iridium plugs, but I'm wondering if the car was knocking at idle and for some reason the cylinders cleaned up and the knock disappeared. A mystery to me.
Old 03-19-2001, 04:08 PM
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ricardo_life:
Leave now and check your oil! Low oil will not allow your VTEC to come on. Honda believes low oil to be the cause of the number 4 cylinder problems (Barry's opinion excepted).
Old 03-19-2001, 04:53 PM
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Originally posted by Utah S2K
ricardo_life:
Leave now and check your oil! Low oil will not allow your VTEC to come on. Honda believes low oil to be the cause of the number 4 cylinder problems (Barry's opinion excepted).
I agree with Utah S2K. Check your oil. I agree that plenty of oil is always the right thing. I KNOW that low oil does not explain my first engine's failure. It might explain several others, perhaps even most. Honda has told customers that that is true. However, that explanation fails in my case since I did check my oil before driving on January 4, 2000 when my cylinder failed. My dealer's service manager confirmed it when he listened to the sound. The mechanic confirmed it when he drained the oil from the oil block. Besides, the engine only had 650 miles on it. If the oil was low enough to destroy the engine in 650 miles, then something serious was previously wrong with it.

Touchy you ask? Kinda. I do want them to find out what is wrong, but, blaming the owner doesn't help unless it is really owner negligence. I'm willing to believe that the failures of differentials might be from abusive driving. If the facts would fit owner abuse as the cause of #4 cylinder failure, I'd live with that. It bothers me that the facts do not fit, but the company has in the past blamed the owners without sufficient proof.

Barry...
Old 03-20-2001, 01:25 AM
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Check the oil level after letting the engine turn over for about 2 minutes. From the dip stick I came to the conclusion that hardly no oil was in the car.
After driving the car for about 45 mins, I then pilled up in a service station, switch the engine off for 2 mins, then check the oil level several times. The car then seemed to have too much oil.
Conclusion.
This baby has to be sold when she's fixed. I must say my car has only 4500 miles and is just over 6 months old. I guess this car was made for the track! But I aint no fool. If U push to the limit U will pay the penality. High revs (3rd, 4th gear)will kill this car. No doubt that this car has the best gearbox engine combo on the market. But what a price to pay.
I don't see myself visiting honda every 3 months because the car cannot face reality when put to the test.
I really see this car to depreciate very fast after truth is really uncovered about this car.
I do love the honda s2000, but when you spend
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