You must take note that I used 2 terms ............. "performance" and "CAI". The "cooling" plate shields the incoming air from getting too hot. It's a sort of air channeling device and a heat shielding device. The FIPK is a performance intake in that it actually allows the engine to pull air in more efficiently. It also just happens to be a CAI as well. The "cooling" plate device does not change how the actual intake performs from a hydrodynamic or aerodynamic point of view.

 

I added 3whp on the dyno with the addition of the cooling plate and a K&N drop in filter. Obviously not gains to write home about, but at least no losses.

 

Shipping is $70. No wonder they sell it cheap.

 

o shizzle must buy them asap

 

xviper:

Quite true. A CAI of the type on the OP link (as well as the Spoon, Aut and Garage Defend) don't improve the airflow AFTER the air has been through the filter. They only make cool air more available to the filter. But by doing so, these do provide a performance benefit (though certainly nowhere near 15 peak hp!) In fact, many posters here are using the AUT in combination with the FPIK and are reporting good results. As the device being discussed here at least LOOKS LIKE an AUT, I assume it would combine well with the FPIK too. The only reason I haven't gone to an FPIK is that my AUT-based mod also employs and air scoop behind the grill to the intake of the AUT that actually provides a bit of greater air pressure in the air box. No supercharger, but it helps. The FPIK does not mount the filter intake in a sealed unit, so I couldn't get any ram air. If K&N would build something like an FPIK where the filter point was in a sealed box like the stock unit, I'd buy it too.

Other than the exagerated hp claims, note that shipping costs are more than the product price! Looks like this fiberglass thing would cost over $100, whereas $180 will get you an AUT made of CF. Like you, I'm not much of a "looks under the hood" guy, but I think the extra $80 is well worth it here.

Thanks,
Richard

 

I just bought two so I can add 30 "hps"

 

Guys:

While I'm in total agreement that the claim of 15 more peak hp from this fiberglass rad plate/CAI is absurd, I don't think we should dismiss the product as without value. It is just a shame that the seller had to "cheapen" his product with highly exagerated claims. Certainly, this product alone will produce little, if any, additional peak hp. But my highly similar AUT CF plate and CAI (with a few additional mods) DOES certainly help performance in areas where the s2k is weakest --- pre-VTEC. With it, I can start from a stop in first at 2K rpm, let out the clutch, hit the throttle, and zoom right up to VTEC much quicker that I could do so before (if I could even start out at 2K rpm before and not bog). I timed it both ways. In higher gears, 3.5K to 6K goes by in a nanosecond compared to before the mod.

Now I have not seen this specific product and can't speak for it. But my CF AUT (which looks about the same at least) has produced results mentioned above that I really like, and so do many others. Read the AUT Sponsor Group Buy thread and see for yourself. It's got quite a following.

So just because somebody engages in a false and cheezy marketing program for this rad plate/CAI, you will do yourself a disservice if you take this to mean that the concept is not a highly beneficial and respected mod --- for the purposes for which it is designed. Not producing 15 more (or perhaps any more) peak hp at 8.75K rpm or so, but in producing better low and mid-range power as evidenced by quicker times in these ranges. And by my experience, increasing fuel mileage as well.

Thanks,
Richard

 

 

A description and pics of my mods based around the AUT rad plate and CAI can be found here. As the AUT appears similar to the plate linked in the OP, I am guessing much the same could be done with it.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=365455


As you can see, I have concentrated on the availability of cool air, and "ram cool air" into the stock air box, and have been very satisfied wih this. However, if there is a way to increase the air delivery efficiency AFTER the air is sucked in to (or forced into) the filter, I would be most eager to here about same.

If you read this link, you will see that I have taken an AUT rad plate/CAI and added a ram air scoop between the grill and intake on the AUT. I have gutted, sealed, and insulated the stock air box, and added a "side pipe" to the hole in the pax side of the fender well, with a flapper valve to close it off when ram air is present due to speed, to prevent the ecape thereof. The reason I have not gone to a K&N FPIK or such is they do not seal the intake point (the filter) in a sealed box, as does the stock and gutted one, thereby depriving me of the ram air factor (actually measured at 2 psi at 90 mph air speed.) My point thus far is that a rad plate/CAI can have some real benefiial effects, especially when comboned with a few other simple mods. 15 more hp peak? No. But some additonal hp an torque mid-rpm? Yes.

I am highly satisfied with this mod, have driven some other s2k's with otuer types of CAI's, and prefer mine.

But xviper brings up an interesting point. If there are mods that I could insall that would benefit air intake AFTER the air has been drawn or forced into the filter that would also reain the "ram air' FUNCTION of the sealed air box, I woud be most eger to here about them. I understand that getting or "ramming" cool air into a stock filter is only half the story. How effectively the air reaches the throttle body from the filter is the other half. I would be inrested in al such recommendations.

Thanks
Richard

 

I still prefer J's Racing CF radiator cover of mine.